Think my pumps poorly - can you confirm??

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can you give me some advice on what to do next please?

seem to have a pump related problem.

I've tried to include everything - still bound to have missed something! - so please ignore the verbiage if the answer's obvious.

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System is mainly 30y old.
Gnd Floor: ideal mexico (2007) & timerbox(?) & 5rads with only manual controls;
Stairs: circular thermostat (set@20C)(2007);
1st Floor Airing Cupbrd: immersion tank & "grundfos multihead g" pump(2007) & 2xelectricpipeopeners(2011&2007) & electronics box(?);
1st Floor: 6rads with only manual controls;
Attic: small feeder tank with ballcock.

The system has never (1y) been able to handle the mexico at more than half power - boiler banged if turned up high, but upto half power it apparently worked ok (however rads had differing max heat even after balancing).

The other day I made the mistake of turning the mexico power way up. Bit of banging, then noticed the radiators were cooling. Turned everything off and waited til morning to repower. No go. Boiler regularly lights up ok but no sustained burn even tho cold day. No heat from rads. Tank water hot, but might be from previous night. Pump body becomes very hot but connecting pipes not so much.



What I've done
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Checked the timerbox controls actually cause the electricpipeopener slider controls to move - they do.


Tried to clear any water blockages: Tied up the ballcock, cleaned out the gunk in the tank, opened all the rad controls & vents and drained the system completely (except maybe one dstairs rad with seized vent). Water outlet runs clear towards end. Closed everything up, undid ballcock, added cleaner and refilled.

No obvious change.


Noticed pump was remarkably silent. Decide to vent pump. Undo pump central screw, bit of water, re-tighten.

No change.


Decide to take pump apart. Turn off elec & detach pump pwr cable; Close adjacent pump isolation valves; remove 4allen bolts; gently ease the pump housing back... unexpectedly (to me) leaving the stator apparently wedged solidly in the pipe. Aha! moment somewhat spoiled when the stator finally dislodged and I discovered the isolation valve(s) were also faulty.

Rebolted pump, changed clothes, drained system, unbolted pump, extracted stator, cleaned encrustation (and rust) from pipe&pump ends, WD40 and emery clothe to ensure free spinning, reassemble, rebolt, clean dulled pwr cable connections, refill, undo/redo central pump screw &bleed and confirm stator spins freely with screwdriver, bleed all rads (except 1), re-pwr and confirm live connection @pump.

No obvious change, beyond one radiator (the one that normally warms 1st) warming slightly.
 
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Hi Dan,

makes no real noise i can hear. Taking off the central screw cap while its pwred up and the cs is supposedly working shows no obvious movement.

Is it supposed to spin most/all of the time or just occasionally?
 
You have obviously not read the FAQ on this site as it would have answered all your questions.

You can see the pump spinning by looking at the shaft after removing the big screw!

Read FAQ

Tony
 
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Tony, Thanks! I thought I'd waded through the entire internet faq re this! Does this one say whether the pump is beyond repair?
 
There is no tension. Anything else before reaching a conclusion?
 
So the pump is spinning or not? Can you stop the pump? By saying "no real tension" - I'm guessing you can stop the pump and as such; new pump req'd.
 
Finger test :D

I would rather use my finger to pick my nose but use correct tools to come to correct conclusion. If capacitor is indeed suspect, check it.
 
Remove the centre screw from the pump and use a large screw driver and spin the pump with the controls turned on, it 'should' come to life.

Andy
 
DanTheG: whenever I look it's not spinning. There is little, if any, noise from the pump since the system failed.

DP: I'd call the capacitor suspect. How would you suggest testing it?

Andy: Just tried to spin the pump manually with the large screwdriver (with system on and pwr confirmed @ the pump) - it doesn't come to life whichever way it is manually spun.

Thanks for your constructive replies, its appreciated (&ever more so as the temp drops!).
 
if it won't "kick-start" it's likely the motor is now open circuit after a spell of overheating. Probably why it doesn't even get warm now.
 

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