Threadlock application on brake caliper bolts

[DIYspanner]

When reassembling brake calipers the bolts should be clean and dry since they need the metal-metal friction to keep them tight.

Is it wise to apply some threadlock to the threads for the purpose of preventing corrosion and ease of dis-assembly on future pad changes ?

I usually put the bolts in dry and dab over the bolt heads /nuts after assembly to prevent the weather getting to the tightend threads.

 

[Burnerman]

Some packs of new pads actually have two or four new bolts in with the kit.....looking carefully at them you can often see the ring of locking compound.
Personally I don't bother with extra locking fluid when reusing the old bolts, but I do double check the tightness when the job is done.
What you are doing makes good sense......it prevents the bolt head hexagon from rusting. I do keep ordinary grease away from the slider boots though - it's red rubber grease there for me.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Thanks Burnerman

ref: I do keep ordinary grease away from the slider boots though.

I use copaslip on brake parts although I can have a look at red rubber grease.

 

[Belle427]

Red rubber is good stuff, i always found copper grease on the sliders didnt last long.

 

[Avocet]

Silicone grease works well on rubber bits too. Personally, I don't bother with locking compound on the bolts that you'd remove to change the pads. I do fit them dry but have never had a problem with them backing off. The big ones holding the fixed part of the caliper to the upright, I sometimes lock. On the better quality replacement brake pads, they sometimes give you a couple of new bolts with a blob of "Patchlock" already on them.

 

[DIYspanner]

Just out of curiosity, what's the pro mechanic's choice of lubricant for brake system parts ?



If I should have one for metal parts and another for rubbers seals/covers, all well and good, I shall use both.

 

[AlanE]

Not a pro but have started to use Mintex Ceratec instead of copper grease.

 

[Burnerman]

The choice of materials for brake construction seems to be getting better.....anti rattle pad shims are a better quality stainless, and calliper brackets are more likely to be carbon steel, so less corrosion.
One point of note though, mineral grease will rot the rubber boots so that, to me, is a complete no-no.....although it does take a good while to cause deterioration!
I stick with the good old coppaslip - and then wonder why there's no trace after a year or so CV joint grease is another stand by.....high melting point and fairly viscous.....it does tend to stick around.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

ref: Mintex Ceratec

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Have watched a promotional video about the product and its won me over.

Shall get some for my next brakes change. I tend to buy Mintex brakes anyway, just seem to be the best with the exception of Ferodo which aren't available locally in my area.