To Turf or Seed

[compact]

Hi
I have an 'average' sized garden for my semi.
There were 3 fruit trees originally, however by the time I got there, the was a stump in the middle of the lawn and an apple tree which dominated the end of the garden.

After a couple of good years of Cider, I've taken out the Apple tree and removed all the weeds (it was great for growing weeds in the shady area...)

Questions on what best to do now.
We would ideally like to extend the lawn and have beds at the back and sides.
The existing lawn, isn't the best (please see pics) as we have been focusing on the house (and cider).

We don't have any dogs, the child is 4 months, as such we can keep off the grass for a the summer if necessary.

The ideas are:
1) Throw down seed where the trees were and see how that grows. Plus scatter around the lawn to help bulk it up (it's a bit patchy in areas) (cheapest option)
2) Turf the areas where the trees were
3) Go whole hog and re-turf the whole lawn.

I'd obviously like to go for the option 1, whilst wanting the finish of option 3

Been keen to know how much prep I would have to do with either seed or turf. Happy to get cracking and break the back for a few weekends

Of a side note I have removed the stumps, but not chased out and removed all the roots, would this be an issue?

 

[rodriguezk]

Depends how impatient you are.
Both will look the same after they're established. Turf is quick but dearer and more backbreaking , seed is cheaper but requires time.
Check at a suppliers about different grass types too. Some are more suited to ornamental lawns whilst other species are better at coping with the kids playing football on it and of course a mix can be tailored to suit you specific needs.
If I'm remembering correctly there is an old saying about seeding which goes along the lines of "one for the birds, one to rot (or die) and one to grow" which is essentially saying sow more than you think to be sure. The last time I did a lawn I used seed and mixed it with sharp sand and raked it into a bed.

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[Halitosis]

Seed will do as good a job for less effort and money - just needs time. First kill the weeds with glysophate, use a shopping basket to sieve the top few inches (that bit hurts but is worth it if stoney, though your soil looks good), level it out with a rake, then sow a decent grass seed at the appropriate rate (overseeding is actually no better than underseeding as it will impede growth - you can always sow more seed a month or two later), then water little & often and leave it to do its thing for the summer.
Here's mine (sowed October in Scotland, photographed March, though its even better now - lush!)

After the winter break, the pitch is now open

• Halitosis
• 20 Mar 2016

The kids are delighted that football is now permitted (and possible)

 

[r896neo]

If your happy to stay off it and you can commit to watering it properly then seed is often better. You can chose the mix for a start which will help if its shady.

Save the money from turfing and use it to buy some good screed topsoil and grit sand and follow the advice above. Dont over sow as halitosis said. IF you seed at this time of year you will need to use a selective weedkiller as weeds will grow quicker than the grass. You can do a first mow at probably 6 weeks that will kill lots of them off but dont be alarmed if it looks decidedly weedy, a selective and some fertiliser at the 8-10 week mark will sort that out. Follow directions on any weed products as there will be a minimum time for after sowing. Dont try and use a granule weedkiller you need to use a liquid one on a new seeded lawn.

 

[compact]

Thanks for the tips, I remember sieving my dads flower beds like I was panning for gold, as a kid.
That lawn, looks exactly what I want..

Unfortunately I'm without a car this weekend, so only have the metal shed's near me (i live in Old Trafford)...

Questions
1) Does this look like Ok seed?
2) Also how long between putting down weed killer, can i sow the seeds?
3) Can I try without Topsoil or will it fail
4) Manual, should I mix some in?
Thanks

 

[Halitosis]

Glyphosate weedkiller will kill living plants but is harmless to all else around, so you could theoretically sow seed straight away, though I'd give it a day or two to allow absorption by the weeds before the proper work. Unfortunately more weed seeds are likely to spring up along with your lawn, but as R896neo says, you can get those later via spray or pulling them out manually. Although the stuff in your photos would likely be fine, "fast grow" means you'll be out with your mower more often as it wont slow down! I'd personally go online - google lawn seed and you'll find specialists who sell different types of lawn seed (from hardwearing family/pet friendly to low maintenance/slow grow, shade or ornamental) - they'll deliver to you and are still likely cheaper than your DIY shed. Your soil is probably fine, but sieving/turning it will help oxygenate it, and buy some fertilizer (not horse manure, but chemical granules) to rake in and help the seeds along - the seed retailer will sell it.
Careful with the glyphosate and your existing lawn though - don't spray it about on a windy day!

 

[compact]

Hi
After a couple of weekends of weeding, flattening, turning over, more weeding, sifting stones, chicken manure, seeding etc.
10 days later it is looking like Rooney's hair mid transplant.
What should I do for the full Trump toupee.
Should I scatter more seeds?
Scatter and trying to turn over (but would that kill what is growing)
Wait a few weeks for the lawn to take, then buy some Lawn Thickener?

Cheers

 

[Footsoldier888]

One thing you haven't mentioned is watering. Unless it is raining you need to water every day with a watering can with rose on.

It looks fine, I am doing mine and it takes a lot longer than these seed packs say. About six weeks before it stops looking scratchy and thickens out.

Haven't used weed killer here. I have weeds coming up but I just pinch them out. Is working OK.

 

[compact]

Ah yes I am watering every evening.
I am pinching the weeds I can reach, but ones in the center I was unsure, as I would have to step on the new grass.

I suppose I could setup a scaffolding plank and bricks so not to step on it.

Cheers for the reply.

 

[Footsoldier888]

Lol I have had the same worries here

However I have found grass I have flattened completely has revived in a couple of days, it's tougher than it looks!

I even pulled out a fair few blades in the weeding but now five days later it is filling in, haven't even been watering either .

Don't worry you'll be cutting soon!

 

[Halitosis]

Worry not - that'll thicken up over the summer as more of the seed germinates. If you feel the need in another month, mix seed with a 50/50 mix of topsoil & sand and spread it over the thinner sections. Best not to disturb the existing soil with young shoots.

 

[compact]

4 weeks in, It's start to thicken out in areas, though still patchy.

When should I do the 1st cut?
Think I am going to re-seed the patchy bits to thicken it up

 

[Halitosis]

When should I do the 1st cut?

About 4 weeks ago... I was told that the trick is to cut it before it grows stems/flowers (at which it becomes a plant rather than a blade)

 

[stealthwolf]

That looks long enough to start mowing IMO. Do it on the highest setting for a while and slowly bring the height down.

 

[compact]

I'll give it a mow this week.
And we scatter some more seeds.
Cheers