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Triton Ivory || - no water flow

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Rugbyears, 11 Apr 2010.

  1. Rugbyears

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    A wiring diagram would be an excellent addition!

    Yes the neon continues to do exactle the same thing.

    When I purchased the m/s I thought I would get a solenoied as a spare. Although the new solenoid looks ok, I'm not so sure about the m/s as it seems to stick, therefore I've put back the original m/s.

    What kind of readings should I expect for the verious ares to indicate a malfunction. I'm happy to retest and feedback, the wiring diagram would be useful to ensure I'm test the correct connection.
     
  2. seco services

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    a good solenoid coil will give 3.4 kohms or above.
    forgetting the m/switches, water flow, heating etc.
    -----------------------------

    lets get the neon to stay on, then i think you'll get the water flow.

    look at the diagram you'll see what i mean.
    soon as the pullcord is switched on looking at your shower you should have 230v at the main brown wire with the (yellow) end. and neon on.
    the neon should never go out unless pulllcord off?


    if you then turn your dial round to the first notch
    is the brown (yellow) end still giving 230v ?

    also is their 230v on the thin brown wire on the solenoid coil ?



    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Rugbyears

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    At this point the reading is 247v

    Yes, still reading 247v

    If you measure it with the power setting knob in the neutral position the reading is 145v, however once you turn the knob (power setting) the neon goes out as you know but the voltage returns to 245v like wise if you turn to engage next setting up. Once neutral is re-engaged the voltage decreases to 145v and neon lights up.
     
  4. seco services

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    when you checked the voltage on the brown at the solenoid coil
    when did you put the other probe to earth or to neutral ?

    and where abouts ?

    try it on the solenoid brown live and the solenoid neutral.
    what do you get ?
     
  5. Rugbyears

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    I was using the main earth to ground it!

    I've now redone the reading on the solenoied, this time using solenoid Live and Neutral. The reading was -00.00 regardless of the position power setting knob.
     
  6. seco services

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    right getting somewhere.
    forget about the 145v reading.

    where working on the dial turned to the first setting.

    that neutral on the solenoid valve with the green gunge
    check that at both ends.
    i suspect the end into the connection block with the other 2 neutrals.
    if you want move that neutral to the lower one.

    you should get 230v at the solenoid brown and solenoid blue
    with dial at first setting.
    the solenoid will then work and the neon stay on.
    i suspect a bad neutral connection.
     
  7. Rugbyears

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    Both ends clean and secure - Also verified continuity.

    All three wires securely fitted contained within some form of clamp - Removed single thin wire and securely fitted in lower conection.

    Reading again is 000 at first setting.

    As a test I disconnected the neutral at the main connection and used a spare length of wire, running from the main connection to the neutral on the solenoid and received the same reading.

    Is it that the solenoid live may be at fault or maybe an issue with the pullcord box, although it is both receiving and transferring 230v.

    [​IMG]

    Am I correct in assuming that the solenid live contins a 'Blue' live cable routing to the neon and onto the micro switch, in which case the m/s is always positive, hence the neon lighting up once the pullcord has been activated?[/quote]
     
  8. seco services

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    it comes back down to what i said 3 pages ago the pullcord.
    even though it supplies 230v and connection/burnt etc can trigger an open circuit soon as any power is drawn.

    i would go back and fit a new pullcord.
    or try bypassing the pull cord for now.

    top thin brown wire live when pull cord on.
    the blue wire with it go's to the neon also constant live.

    the blue from neon (neutral) go's to the solenoid coil joins the other neutral to the main connector block.
    so neon always got a circuit.

    the brown from m/switch only live when the m/switch activated
    so then opening coil and using same neutral; back to connector block.

    that neutral has proved ok.
    so it comes back to the mains neutral from pullcord
    not making a circuit.
     
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  9. Rugbyears

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    Ok I'll go and purchase a new pullcord, can you suggest an appropriate one.

    I'll feedback tonight as soon as I am able to replace it!

    Thanks!
     
  10. seco services

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    descent one like a MK.
    make sure it's 45/50 amp.
    wheres your other m/switch brown one ?
     
  11. Rugbyears

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    Fantastic :) thank you!

    I've replaced the pullcord with a new one and it has worked first time just as you suggested in your very first post. I assumed that because I was measuring 230v it was working.

    Although, the same issue with the red neon coming on without pulling the cord?

    Huge thanks
     
  12. seco services

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    [​IMG]


    you mean you made me go through 3 pages and it was what i said on the first post.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Rugbyears

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    :oops: :oops:

    I can't thank you enough - cheers :D
     
  14. seco services

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    least its done and working ok.
    and you know your shower inside out by now.
    [​IMG]
     

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