Using jigsaw, planer and impact drill?

as for PPE - can't go wrong protecting your eyes whatever you're doing.

Hand protection...well I tend to avoid gloves when using power tools (unless really needed) - too many chances for the gloves to cause an accident (or make much worse)!



googles- do you need these even when drilling?
 
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All cordless except the planer.

Make any difference?

Maybe I should just stick to my combi drill, I am much more comfortable with. When and what sort of jobs would I use a drill like the one above?
An impact driver is really a high performance 1st fix screwdriving tool - you'd use one to screw together softwood frames (e.g. 4 x 2in stud walling), to assemble decking, etc. They are fast and light, but they are also very noisy. Whilst tooling, such as drill bits, etc have become available for these tools in recent years, all tooling must be 1/4in hex drive which is always much more expensive to purchase and is only available in limited range of sizes. A go-to tool for the professional, but not universally liked by all tradesmen on account of the noise - so if you have tinnitus you'd absolutely have to wear ear defenders or plugs. TBH unless you are making a living from your tools I doubt that a majority of DIYers would really benefit from having one, but I may be wrong there

A combi drill, on the other hand is far more versatile because it can be used as both a drill and a screwdriver. As a carpenter and joiner whilst I do a lot of screwdriving with an impact driver, I still have a use for my combi drill. Given an either or choice to make I'd probaby plump for the combi.

Regarding using a jigsaw and an electric planer, before I start using these regularly are there any safety precautions I take and how dangerous are they? I guess they don't kick back as dangerously as a circular saw. I was watching my friend on the jigsaw and he has his right hand on the trigger and left on the front of the jigsaw and gets down really close to it to make sure he's following the guide line.
Jigsaws are generally regarded as a more benign tool, but only if you keep your hands AWAY from the cutting path. I do wonder if your friend is trying for a Darwin Award with his somewhat zany approach to use. You don't get kick back, but you need to keep downwards pressure on to tool at all times, choose the right sawblade for the job and keep the free hand behind or to the side of the saw blade AT ALL TIMES. As slippyr says, don't push the tool but let it do the work fo you. Don't put your head too close to the saw - you risk getting hair drawn in (ouch!) and of sharp chips being ejected into the eyes (ouch again!). Always work in a well lit place and ensure that the work piece is fully supported, especially near the cutting line, even if this means moving the workpiece repeatedly. Goggles optional but advised, dust extraction or a mask are a good idea if sawing dusty stuff such as MDF. Not too noisy so ear protection less necessary for many

Planers are a different kettle of fish. They are noisy, cut very aggressively and generate copious quantities of chips and dust. At the very least they need to be fitted with a dust bag or better yet be connected to a vacuum cleaner. An 80mm planer can fill a 25 litre industrial vacuum bag in a one to 2 hour intensive session so keep checking and emptying the bags! If you have tinnitus the noise will be an issue, too, so wear hearing protection. Just because a planer can take a 4mm deep pass there's no need to actually do that - a greater number of smaller passes (1 to 2mm with finishing passes of 0.5mm or less) will not only cause less strain on the machine, but you'll be less likely to clog the dust port with chips. and if you do get a clog, unplug the machine before attempting to clear it. BTW a plus of the smaller the thickness step is that it is easier to control the cut - it is all too easy for a beginner to plane away far too much material, and you can hardly glue it bacjk on afterwards. Whatever you are planing must be secure - preferably clamped or wedged in place so it can't move. Planers are very good at turning unsecured objects into flying projectiles! Keep BOTH hands on the planer at all times - the right hand is on the loop handle, the left is on the knob - that way it's much more difficult to plane across an errant finger or two (and even I've managed that! - still have a little flat on the end of one finger). Never run your fingers across the carbide blades - they are very sharp and will potentially cut deeply` - and make sure that you understand how to remove, replace, reset and resecure the cutters properly (read the manual several times and if in doubt, ASK). When using a planer always make sure that your body is to one side of the tool and that you are not in the firing line. And finally, take care to ensure that there is no metal in the surface you are about to plane (screws, bolts, nails, staples, etc)

There's quite a bit there to digest, but you've had only what the apprentice would get :rolleyes:
 
The impact driver is for when you need really high torque. Slightly on the niche side for general DIY. I rarely use mine, as you say, a combi drill is often easier and more appropriate.

To jigsaw safely beside the obvious eye and ear protection:

Make sure your work is held down securely, make sure the blade is in properly and runs in the guide, make sure you keep the cable out of the way so that it cannot fall in the path of the blade and won't snag either.

Take your time, don't push too hard - let the tool do the work. Keep your hand out of the way. You may find you need to keep blowing to get the dust out of the way to see your pencil line.

For a good cut, steer gently, and aim to steer from the back of the saw, if that makes sense. Don't push hard sideways because you'll end up with a very wiggly cut on the underside.

Use the right blade for the job and make sure it's sharp. If your cutting something that has a finished surface like worktop or similar, use a "reverse" cut blade.

Thx

Just did some practice. When I watched my friend cut semi-circles from the edge he would go up one end then pull back then go forward then back and seemed to chip little bits off bit by bit. Is it ok to pull back go forward pull back
 
Just did some practice. When I watched my friend cut semi-circles from the edge he would go up one end then pull back then go forward then back and seemed to chip little bits off bit by bit. Is it ok to pull back go forward pull back

Yes; if you need to jigsaw a sharp bend you have to do something like that.

My addition to jigsaw safety advice: check underneath to make sure you're not going to hit a clamp, edge of workbench, etc.
 
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googles- do you need these even when drilling?
Depends on what you're drilling but there's no harm in wearing some protective specs - I've got some of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-shield-clear-lens-safety-specs/3539g which you don't really notice once on. My only gripe is that these ones mist up very easily if it's cool and you're wearing a dust mask - next time I'll probably go for some glasses that have been given an anti mist treatment.

I would say for drilling it becomes important to wear them if your're drilling something particularly tough/hard or if you're drilling at or above head height (this also goes for driving screws). I always wear specs when using my impact driver as it has shattered quite a few bits - whilst no shards have hit me that I'm aware of I would not want one of those shards in my eye!
 
Any recommendations for a good selection of jigsaw blades?
 
You are not set out to be a 'Handy Man'

What are you doing at the moment? Or what have you being doing?

Andy
 

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