Valve running to toilet cistern

[Padraig Clarke]

Hi all.

I have a valve section that runs into the base of the cistern. On Sunday the turning knob broke of and it sprung a leak. I was able to shut the water supply down from a small 'turn screw valve' at the bottom of the pipe. So I have mains water still, just no water can flow up to the cistern. I have now removed this valve section completely and looking for advice in connecting the pipe back to the cistern.

Do I need this valve section at all, as there is already a 'turn screw valve' at the base of the pipe?

Then depending on the need (or not) what do people recommend I replace this section with?

Thank you!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If there is already a functional secondary local isolation/service valve on the pipework, then the faulty one is not required. You just require to make the joint between the pipes of the redundant valve.

 

[Madrab]

It's an old plastic 1/4 turn service valve, you've snapped the top off the cap, needs replaced. They probably didn't use the valve cause it was jammed, hence the isolation valve below it. It has probably been left in so they didn't have to alter the pipe and add in a new tap connector.

New piece of pipe with a new tap connector, just be careful connecting to that plastic valve tail that you don't cross thread it.

 

[Padraig Clarke]

Thanks!

Can someone send me a link to the pipe and/or connectors I need to get?

 

[Newboy]

It depends on your skill level.

One of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-end-feed-straight-tap-connector-15mm-x/23555

with a fibre washer http://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-prestex-tap-connector-washers-5-pack/1109j

A short length of copper http://www.screwfix.com/p/wednesbury-copper-pipe-15mm-x-2m/42302

One of these to connect to your existing supply pipe http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-end-feed-straight-couplers-15mm-x-15mm-20-pack/81276

with some of this http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-powerflow-flux-paste-100g/16396

and http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-solder-wire-lead-free/77198

a set of http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-hilmor-glm-pipe-bender/63880

one of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-automatic-tube-cutter-15mm/36198

this http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-disposable-propane-gas-cylinder-400g/71092

to go with this http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-super-fire-2-brazing-torch/68635

and this to (carefully) tighten the tap connector onto the floatvalve tail http://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-9031-t-adjustable-wrench-with-slim-wide-jaw-8/3578f


or you may find a flexible connector easier http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-15mm-x-mm-x-300mm/6768g

 

[HERTS P&D]

And while your doing that, you should fit one of these:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-bottom-entry-brass-shank-fill-valve/47792

Andy

 

[Madrab]

or for a simple diy fix, just use one of these, plastic on plastic, hand tighten, what could go wrong ....

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-pse3203wp-tap-connectors-white-15mm-x-2-pack/85257

 

[Padraig Clarke]

Thank you everyone! Job done!

 

[dilalio]

Thank you everyone! Job done!

Happy crapping!

 

[Newboy]

Happy crapping!

He said "job done" not jobbie done

 

[dilalio]

He said "job done" not jobbie done

Nothing quite like "pinching off a pipe choker"