vauxhall combo van alternator

[ljrgas]

1.7dti 2003 plate
Ok been having trouble with this van from the start
now it seem the alternator might be going.
had a look on youtube about testing them and these are the reading i got
12.48v(dc) just battery enginie not running
11.67v(dc) engine running
11.54v(dc) engine running with lights on
11.43v(dc) engine running with lights wipers and indercaters on

somtimes the van starts then does'nt but starts first time with a flash over

yesterday i took the battery off and swapped it off another van my van started but the battery light stayed on on the dash board.

i also unbolted the harness from the battery to the framework on the van and cleaned the end.

its in the front left drivers side of the van
thanks
Lee

 

[Burnerman]

Goosed alternator mate.....with the engine running reasonably quick, you need to see around 14.4v with lights etc on.
Eventually the battery will be so discharged, it won't run the vehicle at all.
John

 

[ljrgas]

thanks burnerman
its weird cause i did the same test the other day and i was getting around 14.10
then lights on 13.26

are these easy to change (DIY)
ive been quoted 250 inc parts over the phone (i no this is not a price quoting site) but wondered if this is reasonable

ive changed one before myself before seem to remember just a few bolts and release the belt but this one does look different due to have two tube connect to it.
if i do decide to have a pop at it can you recomened a haynes book as i cant seem to find one


thanks
Lee

 

[Peter.N.]

If you can DIY, shouldn't be to difficult, access is usually the problem, try these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_s...nator&_nkwusc=vauxhall+combo+altenator&_rdc=1

Peter

 

[Burnerman]

Lee, there's always a possibility that you have an electrical connection problem...basically the thick wire on the alternator connects directly to the battery, and the thin one takes whats known as the battery exciter voltage in - feel free to see if they wiggle, but watch the drive belt!
I still suspect the alternator though.
The two rubber pipes are for the brake servo evacuator pump.
I can't comment on how easy it is to change the alternator, but if I recall an earlier post access is tight.
To give you some idea, get a couple of motor factor price quotes for the alternator exchange, and you'll see approximately what the labour charge is.
John

 

[ljrgas]

thanks for the help guys
thats a very good point on the harness burnerman
also thanks pete for the link
ill let you no if i brave it or not
Thanks
Lee

 

[stuartturbo]

Vaux test spec off TIS2000 is 13.7v to 14.v at idle then the same with everything on at 2000rpm, Measuring voltage at B+ on Alternator with a clamp meter.
Long one

J705100 Alternator, Remove and Install or Replace (Y 17 DT, with AC, LHD)

1. Open bonnet

2. Evacuate air conditioning

Note! Drain air conditioning – see operation "Air Conditioning, Drain " in group "D"
Caution!

On vehicles from model year 04 with ESP - the steering angle sensor loses its basic adjustment each time the battery is disconnected. It must be recalibrated.

3. Disconnect battery

Detach ground cable
4. Remove air cleaner housing (1)

Disconnect wiring harness plug for hot film mass air flow meter (3)
Release in direction of arrow
Remove air intake hose (4)
Loosen clamp (5)
Remove bolt (2)
5. Unclip brake servo vacuum line

5 brackets
Set to one side

6. Remove charge air hose (2)

Release 2 clamps
7. Detach centre charge air pipe

Remove upper bolt (1)

8. Release upper front panelling

Remove 3 bolts (1)

9. Raise vehicle

10. Release lower front panelling

Disconnect wiring harness plug
Remove 3 clips (2)
Remove 4 bolts (1)
Remove 2 nuts (3)
11. Detach front panelling

Note! 2. mechanic
Remove and close the hose – high-pressure – Headlamp washer system
With KM-807

12. Raise vehicle

13. Detach ribbed V-belt cover

Remove 3 bolts (1)
Remove clip (arrow).

14. Detach ribbed V-belt

Tension ribbed V-belt tensioner in direction of arrow
Using KM-913-A at fastening bolt (1)
Note! Mark running direction

15. Detach centre charge air pipe

Remove lower bolt (1)
Loosen clamp (2)
16. Remove lower charge air pipe

To charge air cooler
Release clamp
Remove lower charge air pipe from guide

17. Detach vacuum hose for vacuum pump (3)

18. Detach alternator wiring harness

Disconnect wiring harness plug (1)
Unscrew nut (2)
19. Remove vacuum pump oil feed line

Place collecting basin underneath.
Unscrew banjo bolt (4)

20. Detach vacuum pump oil return hose


21. Remove AC line (2)

Unclip wiring harness
Disconnect pressure switch wiring harness plug (1)
Remove bolt (3)
Set line to one side
22. Remove alternator

Remove 2 bolts (1)
Remove brake servo vacuum line
Unscrew nut

23. Detach vacuum pump (1)

Remove 3 bolts

 

[Peter.N.]

Good grief, and I thought Citroens were bad

Peter

 

[stuartturbo]

They are LOL
One of them is on my scariest drives Visa Gt with the BX Gti lump in
Most of that can be left out ( that what vaux "may" follow in theory)
The ford description is ever worse aimed really low on the skill set level

 

[ljrgas]

just throught id let you no it was the alternator.
steering went really stiff ect

i was going to have ago myself but after reading stuarts post i felt like cracking a berr open instead
cheers for the help
Lee

 

[stuartturbo]

steering goes stiff as the ecu in the steering stops the motor drawing power when voltage drops to lol, The joys of electric based steering

 

[ljrgas]

well the van diddnt start this morning untill i flashed it .
got to the job was in there for hr and it had to be flashed again.
after that seem ok for the rest of the day but kept the engine running a lot.
any ideas
can a alternator kill a battery?
thanks