VERITAS alarm

IF A BATTERY NEEDS CHARGE OR IS FLAT ITS VOLTAGE WILL BE LOW !!
But a faulty battery could show full voltage until it is put on a load and it will then quickly drop.

Same if just low on charge no load and voltage alone will tell nothing unless battery is subject to a load to get any meaningful indication.
 
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Now I know that the fault occurs in 'Zone 2' with the message 'TAMPER'. The control pad is 15 years old and has no fault location finding function 'engineer programming options' that I can see. Is there a simple way of finding which is the faulty detector?
 
Now I know that the fault occurs in 'Zone 2' with the message 'TAMPER'. The control pad is 15 years old and has no fault location finding function 'engineer programming options' that I can see. Is there a simple way of finding which is the faulty detector?
 
does the fault clear.

Just a tamper and zone 2 illuminated could be indicating the power fault and not zone 2 being at fault.

Do you have access to the engineers code and do you use prog to get into the menus rather than 00, as you could have an early prog panel in which case in engineering we see what comes up.

if you are using prog to get into the menus 41 should give the last alarm event.
The early prog panels you could only do this from engineering if I remember correctly, dont have one here to check to be honest.

when you get the loss of power is it just the alarm thats affected?

if you think its zone 2, just put a link in it and that will cancel the zone so shouldnt be active again if its zone 2.
 
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TO SUMMARISE:

I have a Texecom VERITAS 8 system installed that normally works well, including during long power cuts. However, if there is an instantaneous loss of mains power the alarm is triggered and has to be re-set. It happens only after INSTANTANEOUS power cuts. i.e. a switchover at the substation.

I have bought a second battery & both the batteries are fully charged and appear to hold their charge perfectly well.

The fault appears to occur in 'Zone 2' with the message 'TAMPER'. The Zone 2 & TAMPER indicators extinguishe after the alarm is reset on the control pad.

The control pad is 15 years old and I cannot find a fault location finding function 'engineer programming options'. I didn't fit the system.
Is there a simple way of finding if there is the faulty detector?
 
If you type the engineers code prog do you get into engineering?

I dont think the issue is the detector. (link the detector out at the panel) this will confirm it for you, as the detector wouldnt be able to activate the zone, if you have a spare zone, move it from 2 to that spare zone, if it is the detector it will followthe zone you moved it to, if its indicating the power fault you will still get tamper and 2. If that was the case then I would suspect you only had the one powered detector on the system.

For one a standard veritas wont give a tamper on a zone, it would give a global tamper. if the device was faulty I guess you could get a tamper and zone 2 but I am not convinced at present.

Secondly the zone 2 illuminated from a tamper fault indicates a power fault. this is in the engering manuals, cant say if its in user manual/master user manual without checking.

If the power fails for a long time, you get the flashing led indicating a power fault and a regular beep, when you try and set the system or do a walk test it gives 10 beeps to indicate the power fault present.

Again due to age some of these functions may vary slightly.

Given your scenario I would say its indicating a power fault not a zone fault.

How you know whats happening at the substation, sounds like you may need to put some surge protection/ spike suppression or something to smooth out the blips?
 
If you type the engineers code prog do you get into engineering?

I dont think the issue is the detector. (link the detector out at the panel) this will confirm it for you, as the detector wouldnt be able to activate the zone, if you have a spare zone, move it from 2 to that spare zone, if it is the detector it will followthe zone you moved it to, if its indicating the power fault you will still get tamper and 2. If that was the case then I would suspect you only had the one powered detector on the system.

For one a standard veritas wont give a tamper on a zone, it would give a global tamper. if the device was faulty I guess you could get a tamper and zone 2 but I am not convinced at present.

Secondly the zone 2 illuminated from a tamper fault indicates a power fault. this is in the engering manuals, cant say if its in user manual/master user manual without checking.

If the power fails for a long time, you get the flashing led indicating a power fault and a regular beep, when you try and set the system or do a walk test it gives 10 beeps to indicate the power fault present.

Again due to age some of these functions may vary slightly.

Given your scenario I would say its indicating a power fault not a zone fault.

How you know whats happening at the substation, sounds like you may need to put some surge protection/ spike suppression or something to smooth out the blips?
 
Thanks again. Your reply makes complete sense but I haven't got an engineer's code and I'm struggling to get behind the key pad!
 
I would probably also say power surge or spike , fit a mains filter, do you have a multimeter ? If so set to AC and check between the panel Earth and 0volts on pcb. What reading do you get AC ?
 
@ moh222

A healthy battery.

Voltage is NO indication that there is any capacity available, in the same way
that fumes smelt in your car fuel tank is NO indication that petrol exists!

As mentioned before

Suggest if you don't know this basic bit of battery maintenance, you keep quiet

IF A BATTERY NEEDS CHARGE OR IS FLAT ITS VOLTAGE WILL BE LOW !!
As you obviously know nothing about the workings of batteries I suggest you keep quiet.

Any day of the week I could show you a battery showing anything between 12 and 13/14v that is flat as a pancake.

Get it, fumes - no fuel.

By the way, did you know that a 7Ah alarm battery can can and often does hold 12Ah when fully charged, work that one out.
6 months later it could be 11Ah another 6 months 8Ah or even still at 11Ah

An idea for you ring a battery supplier and ask for the technical department, they will be able to give you full chapter and verse much better than I can.
 

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