Victorian Cavity Walls, damp (and surveyors!)

[hotrod]

I still think that cavity walls were essentially a post 1920 phenomena.

My house was built in 1892 and was built with cavity walls

 

[stevebamford]

There was a form of cavity wall,with the bricks laid on edge, but this still used headers as ties. anyway it was very rarely used.

Would you believe our garden walls were built like this. Whoever heard of cavity garden walls! (just had them repaired - cost a fortune!)

Our house is mainly 9" solid walls (headers exposed) but one wall (north-facing) is cavity, but only up to first floor level.

Thanks for the advice. But whats the 'DS' - and would it be worth considering cavity wall insulation - or is that likely to cause more trouble than its worth ?

 

[chessspy]

Hi, hotrod,
I fail to see your point?
I live in one of the hundreds of thousands (perhaps millions)of late Victorian terraced houses built in the building boom of the 1880s, all built with solid walls.
there has to be an exception to prove the rule, which is, that almost all houses built up to 1920 had solid 9" walls.
Your point is?

 

[chessspy]

DS= District surveyor, more or less = building inspector.
however DS,s are qualified, and BIs can be a bit suss.
Having said that I always did whatever they said.

 

[stevebamford]

DS= District surveyor, more or less = building inspector.
however DS,s are qualified, and BIs can be a bit suss.
Having said that I always did whatever they said.

Ta - is a BI the same as a BCO ?

 

[hotrod]

Chessspy, my point was that my house was built in 1892 and was built with cavity walls. You were inferring that;

It would be almost impossible for a Victorian house to have a cavity wall.
the earliest I ever saw was built in 1926, and was very advanced design for it's day.(the owner claimed it was the first ever built)

I was merely pointing out to Steve that it is entirely feasible that his Victorian house is constructed with cavity walls. Is that ok?

 

[chessspy]

Hi, hotrod,
Well with a name like that it depends on where you live, and if you are young enough to come down here to Kent and sort me out.
So, as a working hypothesis, I will assume you could 'do' me, so, absolutely fine my friend....
If however you are unfortunate enough to be house bound, the F off....

 

[stevebamford]

ah sunday evening banter !

anyone want to see a piccie of my garden walls ?

Don't get too excited though

 

[hotrod]

Sorry Chessspy, but that's gone way over my head, why would I want to "sort you out" and "do" you?

Yes, go on steve get "your piccies out for the lads!"

 

[noseall]

rat trap bond.

 

[chessspy]

Ah, yes, rat trap bond, I had forgotten my theory.
It has been a long time.
Very rare, I had never seen it in RW (real world)
There is another equivalent to EGWB. but as I am so old, the little gray cells don't function as they should.

 

[chessspy]

BTW, I had previously made the point that these early forms of 'cavity' walls still used headers.
Basically it was a cheap way of building a wall, and not for insulation but, cost, hence it's use in a perimeter wall.

 

[stevebamford]

Cheers all - actually while we're about it - anyone got any views on what to do about the top of the garden wall?

Under the top layer of bricks there is a row of tiles, many of which are broken (check out the photo)

The guys that did the repointing said it would be a big job to take off the top bricks and replace the tiles

Someone else suggested just finishing the job by cutting off the tiles flush with the bricks ?

Any other ideas ?

 

[chessspy]

What you have is good example of a rarely used 19c bond wall,
I would reccomend getting it done 'right' ie. with new tiles, yes pricy, but right is right, any other solution is liable to look s*it.

 

[noseall]

i concur with chessspy.

remove the soldier coping bricks, remove the damaged tiles and re-instate the tile crease.

it will prolong the life of the wall.