W5 engine oil @ Lidl

[DIYspanner]

£11.50 for 5L 10w40 semi-synthentic, W5 brand and it has all the required specs.

Does anyone use it ?


They have 15w40 as well which I assume goes in the farmer's Grey Fergie!

 

[JohnD]

Strange brands of oil are usually made by one of the big companies with a different label stuck on them.

If you can access the COSSH webpage or SDS document for the product you will see who made it, and possibly also see other brands stuck on the same thing.

I looked up Halfords brand oils once like that, it was made by Comma. I have an idea Wilkinson's is too. Lidl oils might be German, perhaps made by Fuchs.

Unless you have a new or sophisticated car, or a wet-clutch motorcycle, chances are that any modern oil of the right spec will be at least as good as whatever was on the market when the engine was designed. Some of the synthetics are annoyingly specified differently for Ford/VW/GM/BMW.

The correct grade of oil, changed per the maker's schedule and kept fresh, is more important than the brand.

 

[DIYspanner]

I've just bought a 5L tub of Mannol 10w40 Defender of ebay for the same price as the W5 stuff. Also got a Mann brand oil filter.

Mannol, being a German brand, I'm told are quite good.

Mannol do a 10w40 Extra specific for diesels but I assume that's for modern high tech engines where as mine is a 2001 Rover 45 TD.

 

[Burnerman]

Interesting post!
I'm finding most diesels are now using 5/30 fully synthetic and low SAPS - that's due to the necessity of having the dreaded DPF.
The 10/40 will be fine for the TD, and the 'extra diesel specific' used to indicate a higher detergent content.
I'm using Mannol almost exclusively at the moment and that includes coolant and brake fluid......until my factor changes his supplier (again)
John

 

[DIYspanner]

I'm interested by what you say about the diesel specific oils have extra detergent.

That suggests to me that some diesel engines are less clean running or is there another reason for extra detergent?

Seems most engine oils carry the generic application of "suitable for both petrol and diesel, both normally aspirated and turbo charged".

 

[Burnerman]

In the earlier days of indirect injection Diesel engines - circa 1980 - the fuel injection pressure was much lower which gave smoke and a much quicker contamination of the oil. Therefore the lubricant was specified as a high detergent type to keep the engines from blocking up, if you like. Oil and filter changes were typically at 5000 miles.
The I.D. Engine was quiet and a good starter, which made them popular in cars and small vans but a glow plug system was vital to get them going.
Nowadays diesels are direct injection and the fuel is at massive pressure which gives less smoke, less oil contamination and good starting, and accurate timing makes them quiet too. Because of this, engine oils can support both petrol and diesel.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

My mate swears by Mannol but probably because he gets it cheap. knowing him.... I've just changed the oil on my diesel Peugeot and I used the proper stuff Total Quartz Ineo ICS low SAPs . Only £26 for 5 litres form Neilsens on EBay or Amazon. Not even sure if I'd use Lidl oil in my 1973 Rover 3500s.
BTW I've done 6k miles in a year in the Peugeot and the oil that came out was filthy. Recommended change interval is 20K !

 

[Peter.N.]

2000 miles on the Perkins 4/108 John, if you didn't change it then it wouldn't run out when you removed the sump plug. I used to chuck a pint of diesel in before I changed it.

Peter

 

[JohnD]

The big USP of synthetics is that they last a long time. Seems to me there is no point paying the extra if you do frequent changes.

 

[Burnerman]

The original flushing oil, Peter! Was that one ever turbocharged?
John

 

[Burnerman]

The big USP of synthetics is that they last a long time. Seems to me there is no point paying the extra if you do frequent changes.

I think it's largely due to the turbocharger John.....massive speed, temperature particularly and variable vanes need protection right from the start. The Peugeot 1.6 is a very crisp engine but run it on a lower grade oil at your peril.
John

 

[Peter.N.]

I have only seen one turbocharged John and that was one I fitted in a Granada estate. In the very early days of turbocharging I bought a brand new 'Rajay' turbo and and some lengths of silicon and metal pipe and fitted it.

Not overly effective you could say, due to the very large diameter of the turbo you didn't get enough gas flow to give you any boost until you reached 3500 rpm, the engine only did 4000 so you could say that the boost band was a bit narrow. I subsequently fitted a Ford York engine with a Reliant Scimitar overdrive box, that went much better.

Peter

 

[Burnerman]

Good grief I thought those massive things were only fitted to aircraft radial engines
I'm surprised you actually got the thing to spin at all!
John

 

[Burnerman]

When you mentioned a Scimitar I nearly had a heart attack.....especially combined with the overdrive gearbox.
I replaced a clutch on one once, and nearly gave up spannering for life
I guess the Granada had a little more space than the Scimitar - it certainly couldn't have less. Sticking bell housing bolts to the finger springs to mind!
John

 

[DaveHerns]

I'm still amazed that my Citroen/Peugeot diesels only use about 1/2 litre for top ups in 6k miles. You'd be thinking the valve guides and piston rings are running dry