do you know where the 1/2 of water come from after the first mopping? Where was it lying?
I think it was sitting in the sound deadening that's attached to the bulkhead. I couldn't get this off as it's secured behind the dashboard, but doesn't get in the way of the work. There is a small section which fits over the plate and you can remove after the pedals have been removed.
Some old wives tales going round the Internet:
- "Check the door seals" - good advise but should be obvious if they're damaged, as they won't perish at this age.
- "It's leaking past the rear light cluster" - if it does, it will flow into the void between the outer and inner wing, then disappear into the sills and drain away.
- "My garage thinks it's the windscreen" - not impossible, but a lot of places won't want to spend the time to fully strip it out, even just the pedal area, as it's easily a days work for a trained mechanic.
Time for the refit:
Scrape off all the old sealant from the plate. I tried a mixture of isopropanol and white spirits to help get off the rest which seemed to soften it in equal measure. White spirit will leave a residue though which needs to be cleaned off before proceeding. Wire wool was used to key the paint before applying the sealant.
Do the same to the bulkhead, both inside and out. The bottom-right corner shows where the old sealant met the seam filler. I used some fine wet & dry with isopropanol to smooth this off a bit.
Use a good quality polyurathane adhesive/sealant like Sikaflex 221, and spread it around the plate
after positioning the plate back on its guides. Then pull it into position, bolt it in place, and smooth over with more sealant.
New gasket for vacuum servo.
To save removing the bonnet pull from the engine bay, I cut a slit in the handle to remove the cable and pull it through from the inside
Pedals back into position. Don't forget to put the sound deadening back first, but leave the bottom two clips until the carpet's in place
Haynes supplement:
- I had great difficulty getting the clutch pedal past the steering column support crossmember, and had to expand one of the holes to ease it past on re-assembly
- The clutch master cylinder hose had a funny seal on it which wasn't an O-ring, so wasn't renewed, but I did inspect it and lube it with silicone grease.
- Turn the steering wheel upside down to remove/refit the column, which will allow you better access to the splined shaft securing bolt.
- Haynes says to detach the spring from the clutch pedal, though this wasn't needed.
- The indicator and wiper stalk plugs appear identical. Grey means LH and black RH, as for the pre-tensioner wiring.
Carpet dried and back into position, ready for the trim.
You'll need new clips for the trim, carpet and sound deadening.
Just random trays so apologies for those that aren't applicable. Top down tray 1:
- 90460880 (not needed here, for plugging sill holes underneath)
- 90321122 for rear quarter trim and door cards
- 9114743 (not needed here, for wheel arch trim)
- 11023582 (not needed here, washer for most pre-2004 sump plugs)
Top down tray 2:
- 24405739 clip for most trim pieces
- 24405740 clip for most trim pieces (different hand)
- 90214832 clip for carpet and sound deadening
Top down tray 3:
- 24417239 clip for boot carpet, an awful component
- 90355465 not sure, was listed in carpets/trim section but couldn't find a use.
Once the car is fully assembled, leave the window open a crack and if you can, get some desiccant gel packs (coloured) and keep re-generating them. Also, keep clearing out the leaves every year, and hopefully all should be well.
