Weird Antique Heating System/Huge Bill- Can I Add Room Stat?

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I've just bought a house with an ancient (circa 30 years), but excellent heating system. It has a Ti Radiation Fuelsaver boiler, programmer, a 2 port valve, pump, but no stats whatsoever.

The house move broke me financially, and I have just had a huge gas bill for this highly inefficient system. I can't afford to change much, but I want to add a room stat.

I can put the hot water on, on its own , but if the heating is on, I have to have the hot water on too. The 2 port valve controls the heating, there are no valves controlling the hot water.

Can I wire the wireless stat receiver so that it switches the live feed to the 2 port valve. This way, if the heating is on (and the hot water also has to be on so the heating operates), the room stat will open and close the 2 port valve according to heating demand.

Is it OK for a 2 port valve to be opening and closing as the room stat calls for heat or stops calling? Or will a lot of use wear it out quickly?
 
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If the boiler, Ti Radiation Fuelsaver, is the same boiler as a Glow worm fuelsaver (small lightweight boiler with 2 pipes coming from top) your system should be fully pumped.

If that is the case you would be better putting another 2 port and cylinder stat onto the hw side in addition to a stat. You are constantly heating a tank of water whether you use it or not.

You could get 2 port valve and 2 hard wired stats for the price of a wireless roomstat.

Your timeclock may just need the switch moved on the back to make it 16 prog. What type is it?

Is it OK for a 2 port valve to be opening and closing as the room stat calls for heat or stops calling?

That's what it's designed for.
 
Pile dead sleeping bags etc over the HW cylinder!

Thermostatic valves in bedrooms do help significantly, and will be a requirement when you change the boiler. Do em sooner rather than later.
 
How good is the insulation in this house ? If poor, that will have a huge effect on your gas bill and any cost involved in improving it might have a very fast pay-back.
 
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If the boiler, Ti Radiation Fuelsaver, is the same boiler as a Glow worm fuelsaver (small lightweight boiler with 2 pipes coming from top) your system should be fully pumped.

If that is the case you would be better putting another 2 port and cylinder stat onto the hw side in addition to a stat. You are constantly heating a tank of water whether you use it or not.

You could get 2 port valve and 2 hard wired stats for the price of a wireless roomstat.

Your timeclock may just need the switch moved on the back to make it 16 prog. What type is it?

Is it OK for a 2 port valve to be opening and closing as the room stat calls for heat or stops calling?

That's what it's designed for.

Thanks for your help.

1) Yes, I believe same boiler as G. Worm, just older version

2) The system is fully pumped (boiler and cylinder on same floor)

3) Yes, Know I need HW control, need to sort heating first (Funds :( ). Has to be wireless room stat, due to building layout, etc.

4) Programmer is Potterton EP3002 http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Potterto...er-EP3002-7-Day-p-1285.html?source=googlebase
 
Pile dead sleeping bags etc over the HW cylinder!

Thermostatic valves in bedrooms do help significantly, and will be a requirement when you change the boiler. Do em sooner rather than later.

1) How did you know about the sleeping bags? :eek: Spooky! There wasn't any insulation on the cylinder, so we jammed a few sleeping bags around it.

As for dead ones, a few were still alive when put there, but soon succumbed to dehydration, heat exhaustion and chronic overcrowding (sounds like Easyjet) :LOL:

2) The rads have TRVs.
 
EP3002 is a 16 channel programmer, suitable for independent control of water and heating. If you can't select heating on its own take it off the wall and look at the back as it is set to 10. There is a either a small switch or a couple of jumpers to move that change it. (Not familiar with this programmer, ACL or Danfoss man myself :) but they are all the same)

You shouldn't go for the easy option of the wireless stat. Stick a cable in and do the 2 port to the HW side at the same time. All it will cost you is a bit more effort for a lot more savings ;)
 
EP3002 is a 16 channel programmer, suitable for independent control of water and heating. If you can't select heating on its own take it off the wall and look at the back as it is set to 10. There is a either a small switch or a couple of jumpers to move that change it. (Not familiar with this programmer, ACL or Danfoss man myself :) but they are all the same)

You shouldn't go for the easy option of the wireless stat. Stick a cable in and do the 2 port to the HW side at the same time. All it will cost you is a bit more effort for a lot more savings ;)

It is a twin channel programmer .with option of 10/16 programmes ;)
 

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