What material to skin outside of workshop framework?
- Thread starter kujina
- Start date
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If it's a workshop I would go for something insulating and damp-proof
Shiplap looks nice but lets draughts in and has next to no insulation. In storms, rain can blow in through the gaps
I would go for something fire resistant, but not glass fibre due to the irritant fibres. Insects and mice will nest in it if it is something woolly. Maybe rigid foam boards?
A ply lining on the inside will keep out more draughts and mice, and prevent you damaging the insulation by knocking it.
Keep wooden parts like shiplap 250mm above ground to prevent water soaking in or splashing up. A dwarf wall is good, with the cladding overlapping it to prevent rain lying on top.
Shiplap looks nice but lets draughts in and has next to no insulation. In storms, rain can blow in through the gaps
I would go for something fire resistant, but not glass fibre due to the irritant fibres. Insects and mice will nest in it if it is something woolly. Maybe rigid foam boards?
A ply lining on the inside will keep out more draughts and mice, and prevent you damaging the insulation by knocking it.
Keep wooden parts like shiplap 250mm above ground to prevent water soaking in or splashing up. A dwarf wall is good, with the cladding overlapping it to prevent rain lying on top.
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properly installed txg shiplap has no gaps at all
my ship lap shed is 100% waterproof the only leaks where throught 6 or so dead/cracked knots that i drilled out and filled then painted with 3 coats of cuprinol[ the waxy one]
If it is not a boat it does not need to be watertight. You must have looked at barns built in the middle ages. Leak like sieves, yet are dry inside.
My shed isn't finished yet. The ends have a batten frame with garden windbreak netting in to layers. Been like that for three years, and everything inside is dry, including bits of MDF.
My shed isn't finished yet. The ends have a batten frame with garden windbreak netting in to layers. Been like that for three years, and everything inside is dry, including bits of MDF.
Breathable membrane over, (as oilman says) vertical batten over this then cladding. You can also use the wickes stuff, but make sure air can circulate up through the bottom and keep the overlaps loose.
If you're going to use boarding, I'd keep it on the inside. Insulate between studs,then vapour barrier (thin polythene sheet) on the inside, then board over this.
The only advantage of using shiplap over featheredge boards are purely astet/aestet/ast...erm, all about good looks.
If you are wanting a log cabin type heavy duty structure, then smooth faced decking, fixed horizontally works well and looks great, you will need to make 45 degree cuts along both edges though, for the water run off.
Bolt straight through the studs, using coach bolts for max security.
If it's just to store the lawnmower and spiders etc. then just clad the outside and be done with.
If you're going to use boarding, I'd keep it on the inside. Insulate between studs,then vapour barrier (thin polythene sheet) on the inside, then board over this.
The only advantage of using shiplap over featheredge boards are purely astet/aestet/ast...erm, all about good looks.
If you are wanting a log cabin type heavy duty structure, then smooth faced decking, fixed horizontally works well and looks great, you will need to make 45 degree cuts along both edges though, for the water run off.
Bolt straight through the studs, using coach bolts for max security.
If it's just to store the lawnmower and spiders etc. then just clad the outside and be done with.
you have a 8mm tongue completley dry space the boards 3mm apart
you still have 5mm overlap during the winter the gap closes up and possibly compressing up to 2mm off the surface
nothing used to fill the gaps as there arnt any
ok lets take 5" boards the seceret is to get the moisture right if the wood is
fully shrunk they are 106mm coverage so with a 3mm gap
if the boards are 109 then no gap in construction
if the boards are greater than 110mm coverage they are to wet to assemble as the swelling will compromise the amount off tongue in the groove
Thanks for all the replies!
What about this stuff on the outside Breathable Membrane
I'll be using 50mm polystyrene as insulation.
I'll post up a couple of pics of the progress.
What about this stuff on the outside Breathable Membrane
I'll be using 50mm polystyrene as insulation.
I'll post up a couple of pics of the progress.
Fine. All breathers mostly the same. Although screwfix do a 20m roll for about £30.
Polystyrene is the lowest performing of all the insulation types (although is preferable to none)
You still haven't told us intended usage, breather membrane is a posh choice for a mere shed, and not worth bothering with if using polystyrene.
I used it on mine cos i got a part used roll cheap, used rockwool insulation to dampen the noise from power tools.
I wouldn't use anything impermeable like polythene, it causes problems in many cases.
I agree with the last sentence.
If it's for a frequently occupied workshop, sheeps wool is the best insulation as it can absorb moisture and let it out again as the humidity changes. This means the temperature swings are reduced. The problem it has is, it's expensive.
It's much nicer to handle than rockwool, you really could sleep on it. It also poses no fire risk, but neither does rockwool.
I'm going to use it to store things (not just garden tools), have an some excersise equipment in there and also a place to work on computers (troubleshooting, upgrading etc).
The Wicks Breathable Membrane seems to be the best value so far.
Going in order from the outside - in
Weatherboard
Breathable Membrane
Studs (100mm)
50mm gap (half way into stud)
Polysyrene
Plasterboard
I did consider rockwool but I read at some where that it probably wouldnt be a good idea for this type of construction.
Could it be cheapest? Be careful when assuming value especially with something cheap. Often the most expensive is the best value, as it has a much longer life, and having to deal with the problems caused by using cheap materials is often much more than the cost saving.
There should be 10 - 12mm vertical battens between the weatherboard and the membrane.
If you were to use sheeps' wool with your construction method, you can fill the studding with no air gap needed. This would give you much thicker insulation, and less work because you just need to fill the space and not have to put in spacing supports.
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