Wiring immersion heater timer...

[bpowell555]

Have picked this up from screwfix because I'm fed up with the noise the gas makes turning on in the morning, figured I'd get some cheap rates lecky on the immersion heater instead...

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101338&ts=01115&id=17981

There is a big wire going from a red switch box to the immersion heater and its currently in the off position. I figure I snip the wire and wire in the timer (rated for 16A). But the wiring diagram is a bit confusing. Its a single power wire I'm looking to cut. The timer has a solid link between com and L and I can't work out where the other wires should be.

Guys, don't fail me. I'm consulting you before a) Readers digest DIY manual and b) the father in law. I have a lot of faith

(no part Ps please)


Cheers.

 

[plugwash]

what other terminals do you have?

 

[teachergeezer]

You may find that the solid link to which you refer is the supply for the timeclock part of the timer, it will also have a bettery but this is just for a backup. Your best bet is take a flex from the switch fused spur to the new timer. make sure you observe the difference between 'supply' and 'load' for both L & N. If the timer is double pole you can switch both live and neutral, if not switch the live and put the neutral in a connector block within the timer termination cover. Then take the supply to the immersion heater as usual. Thinking about it, it probably is DP as you'd need a N for the timer too.
You can then fix the new timer to the side of the spur, don't go above or below it or you may drill into the existing supply cable!
Try to make sure that, if you need to use extra flex, it is the proper 'heat resistant' flex. It's also available on screwfix and is either TQ or 'butyl' - these are trade names and others are available, it's just that they're the commonest.
A wiring diagram would help massively, could you scan it in and give a link to it somehow if you get stuck, otherwise the father-in-law will be after you.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

[crystal ball]

I take it you have an Economy 7 tariff

 

[bpowell555]

Thanks teachergeezer. I meant to bring in the diagram today and draw it out but I forgot

As its an exposed brick wall I'm pretty sure all the wiring is also exposed, i.e not chased into the brick - I can see both the in wire and the out wire...

Will try and sort it out tonite or tomorrow.


ps. Its not an economy 7 tariff per se but there is a night rate and a day rate...

 

[Qedelec]

They are easy to fit
The timer will only swittch phase.
The bar links Live in to the time clock.
Be careful when tightening the terminals on the ones with the link, the stranded cable has a tendancy to slip down the side of the link, so tug test all connections.

 

[bpowell555]

Have found this:

Posted on Wednesday, 03 August, 2005 - 07:33 pm: Print Post
Hello Gristm

Listed below are the terminals:-

L=Live In (Also linked to COM)
N=Neutral In & Neutral Out (Together)
COM=Permenant Live (Linked to Live In)
NC=Is a Normaly Closed contact (Not Used)
NO=Is a Normaly Open contact wired to your Live Out. This becomes Live when your timer is activated.

Please be aware of Part P, building regulations and if unsure contact a qualified electrician.

Regards
Parrish

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/forums/messages/770/5814.html?1127299082


Sound about right? The original poster's description is exactly like my situation. So L gets live in, N gets both neutrals, and NO gets live (or phase) out?


Cheers guys.


edit: a common question!
http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk...f372909f7a2d793?sa=X&oi=groupsr&start=0&num=3

 

[bpowell555]

Should I expect there to be an earth? What happens to that?

 

[Qedelec]

Connect both Earths together in a connector block, there is just enought room to house it above the terminal screws.

 

[bpowell555]

Cheers QED. You mean a 15A eggbox? I'll take your word it'll fit. Why wouldn't they allow for it with a spare screw like you get on a light?

 

[Qedelec]

Cheers QED. You mean a 15A eggbox? I'll take your word it'll fit. Why wouldn't they allow for it with a spare screw like you get on a light?

COST

 

[bpowell555]

Bl@@dy Chinese!

 

[bpowell555]

Cheers all - up and working