Workshop Roof Design

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by EddyP, 23 Mar 2008.

  1. EddyP

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    I'm currently building a brick workshop, and will shortly need to make a start on the roof.
    The shed measures 3.8m x 2.4m and ideally i'd like a pitched roof along its length. This would mean i'd have a pitch of approx 20 degrees.
    I'd like a roof that doesnt look too industrial, so no corrugated sheet material, i've been considering felt shingles or maybe concrete tiles the same as the ones on the house.
    What are peoples thoughts?
    Also i'd like to design the trusses so that I can use some of the roof space as storage, which sort of truss design would be best for this?

    Thanks
     
  2. Deluks

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    2.4m wide? That sod all, you can knock up a simple triangle using 4x2's and plywood triangles to brace the corners, with a vertical hanger dead centre. If you leave them open you can store lengths of timber, pipe etc up there.

    20 degrees will cause problems with some roof coverings, so make sure whatever you go for is specced for the roof pitch, and follow manufacturers guidelines.
     
  3. EddyP

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    I was thinking of doing something a bit like this perhaps

    http://www.gnomeworks.ca/construct.htm

    Is it that a bit OTT for this?

    The main bit I dont know how to do is the eaves, not really got any experience of roofs.
     
  4. big-all

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    a bit like this
    http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/bigall2005/?action=view&current=workshop005.jpg

    the span is 10ft the timbers are 3x2" and they are up to 4ft apart to alline with the joins on the 6x4ft sheets on
    at 30 degrees and 5ft each side a six foot length gives you 6 inch overlap

    i didnt install central hangers as i decided it would impede sorting out the timber in the "A" frames

    12mm ply used on the "A" frames this means at the shed ends where the a frames meet the 3x2" side on its the same size
     
  5. EddyP

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    That looks spot on.
    Don't suppose youve got any in progress pics as you built it have you?
    What did you tile/dover the ply with?
    And also have you put an extra high door on the end or something so you can get access to that area?

    Thanks Al :)
     
  6. big-all

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    i am assuming you can scroll through the 12 pictures by clicking on the small images on the top right hand side!!!

    look at the last 2 pictures for the storage doors

    or are these any better!!!

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    the roof is 3 layers torch on felt [now] cost around £150 including a very good drink for the man next door with the gas bottle and torch :LOL:

    should last 15 or 20 years ;)
     
  7. EddyP

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    That looks good Al.
    It wouldnt let me see the other pictures in your album from the first link, as it wanted a password.
    But the thumbnails you just posted worked ok.
    It looks good, I hadn't thought about having opening doors on the end of the gable like that, but its a good idea, think i'll do that.
    The trusses look a lot easier than i thought i'd need.
    In your first post where you mention the 6" overlap, is that between ply sheets or hte overhand of the sheet from the sides of the workshop?

    Thanks :)
     
  8. big-all

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    the overlap is wholy out the side from the face off the txg shiplap to the edge of the roof

    the roof trusses where dead easy i drew a plan on the floor of the shed during construction this allowed me to work out the angle [30 degrees] that also left 6 inches hanging out the side

    the plan also let me work out the length of the 3 bits of 3x2" and the cut angles off each plus the 3 pairs of 12mm ply for the a frames
     
  9. Clavet

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    hi
    I have just been through the same thing. Mine was only 4.2 x 3.2.

    Decided to go for a timber frame, using weatherboard on the sides that could be seen to match with the garage/laundry.

    I don't know if you can install bracing ply on the inside, but it might make a reasonably cheap interior cladding.

    I'll be watching your progress.
     
  10. Mw Roofline

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    I think he may have finished it by now pal ;)
     

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