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Tiled shelf leaking


 
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InvictusBob

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:50 pm    Post Subject:
Tiled shelf leaking
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Our house came with this tiled box within a shower.


The box was made of plaster board and eventually water got in and it swelled and let more water through etc... So I rebuilt the box in exterior ply and re-tiled it. Two years later and the same thing has happened again.


I guess normal grouting isn't perfectly waterproof. How should I go about it this time? (I will use edge beading this time!)[/img]
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bathstyle

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:37 am    Post Subject:
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The walls need tanking, I would clad in plasterboard then use a tanking membrane ontop, the main issue here is the horizontal section, how about using a cut to size stone worktop which slightly overhangs the vertical tiling, it would make it a lot easier and cleaner.
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InvictusBob (4 Nov)
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:41 pm    Post Subject:
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same as bathstyle says mate, tank the area before tiling, and just to add, NO grout is COMPLETELY waterproof
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InvictusBob (4 Nov)
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InvictusBob

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:55 pm    Post Subject:
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Thank you both.
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tictic

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:15 pm    Post Subject:
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tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.
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tictic

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:36 pm    Post Subject:
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if u go for the stone worktop remember to get a drip channel cut into the underside of the overhang icon_smile.gif
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tictic

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:42 pm    Post Subject:
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or just go for a bullnose peice of upvc icon_smile.gif
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:55 pm    Post Subject:
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tictic wrote:
tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.


now whose being technical, i dont think epoxy grout is the way to go for a novice mate icon_wink.gif
you know the score
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tictic

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:31 pm    Post Subject:
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jctilingservices wrote:
tictic wrote:
tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.


now whose being technical, i dont think epoxy grout is the way to go for a novice mate icon_wink.gif
you know the score


thats what apprentices are for lol..and marigolds....
had a guy many moons ago all his joint swelt up and his b***s turns out he was allergic to the stuff...the lucky b*****d... icon_lol.gif
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tictic

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:34 pm    Post Subject:
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dont think his missus was complaining that much if i remeber right.. icon_lol.gif




and no it wasnt ME...
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:55 pm    Post Subject:
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plenty people allergic to it mate, i remember the first couple of times i used it back in 1987/88 swollen wristd, blotchy arms and a bit high at times icon_wink.gif

oh how i long for the good old days NOT icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif icon_lol.gif
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vv2806

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:15 am    Post Subject:
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I am surprised the tilers didn't ask this - is the box sturdy enough? How tick is the ply you used and what is the distance between the batons to which the ply is screwed? What centres did you screw? If the base is too flexible, whatever you use wouldn't last long.

And I would imagine you have to use flexible adhesive and grout - same requirements as for floor tiling.

Another option in my opinion is to use cement-sand mixture instead of adhesive. Long ago we tiled an old laminate kitchen worktop this way and had no problems (lived there for 10 years).
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tictic

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:58 pm    Post Subject:
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vv2806 wrote:
I am surprised the tilers didn't ask this - is the box sturdy enough? How tick is the ply you used and what is the distance between the batons to which the ply is screwed? What centres did you screw? If the base is too flexible, whatever you use wouldn't last long.

And I would imagine you have to use flexible adhesive and grout - same requirements as for floor tiling.

Another option in my opinion is to use cement-sand mixture instead of adhesive. Long ago we tiled an old laminate kitchen worktop this way and had no problems (lived there for 10 years).


dont think its the sub structure.going by the pics it doesnt look a big area.
it either grout.addy or a hairline crack in tile or silicone seal.
op as stated it lasts for about 2yrs so my monies on one of the above ere mate i may be wrong tho.
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