I recently replaced the water heating element of my Hoover W1120 washer/dryer which had been causing a short circuit. The machine worked ok for three washes but now the timer has developed two new 'off' positions.
The most common program I use is the number 3 'fast coloureds'. The machine starts off normally but when the timer advances to roughly a third of the way to the '4' position everything stops and there's no sound from the timer. At this point it's as if the machine had been turned off and no current is being drawn. I'm guessing that this is the point where the water would be heated and the previous short circuit has damaged that area of the timer.
If I manually advance the program by one click it carries on as normal until it gets about a quarter of the way between '4' and '5'. Once again it's dead until advanced one click, after which it completes the rest of the program by itself.
I bought a new timer to fix the problem. The original unit's model number is 88900044 D 47577830 but the one I received and was assured is compatible has the number 88900044 C 47577830...almost identical apart from the letter C instead of D between the two groups of numerals. I fitted this with the wires in the same relative positions as they were on my original unit but it doesn't work properly. It doesn't interact with the pressure switch so the water level keeps rising. This is usually around the bottom of the door but with the new timer it rose to three quarters of the way up the door before I turned the machine off. I advanced the timer manually to the fast spin position and turned the machine back on. It drained the water quickly but when it moved to the spin cycle it just stopped. This was the same when tested in the slow spin position. I refitted the old timer and it worked as before, with its two new 'off' positions.
Is it likely that the new timer is faulty or is there basic incompatibility between those two almost identical part numbers? If the latter, is it something which can be remedied by different wiring? I didn't receive a wiring diagram with it so I put the individual wires on the same terminals by relative position and checked this twice before testing and once more when removing to refit the original unit which I'm now using.
The most common program I use is the number 3 'fast coloureds'. The machine starts off normally but when the timer advances to roughly a third of the way to the '4' position everything stops and there's no sound from the timer. At this point it's as if the machine had been turned off and no current is being drawn. I'm guessing that this is the point where the water would be heated and the previous short circuit has damaged that area of the timer.
If I manually advance the program by one click it carries on as normal until it gets about a quarter of the way between '4' and '5'. Once again it's dead until advanced one click, after which it completes the rest of the program by itself.
I bought a new timer to fix the problem. The original unit's model number is 88900044 D 47577830 but the one I received and was assured is compatible has the number 88900044 C 47577830...almost identical apart from the letter C instead of D between the two groups of numerals. I fitted this with the wires in the same relative positions as they were on my original unit but it doesn't work properly. It doesn't interact with the pressure switch so the water level keeps rising. This is usually around the bottom of the door but with the new timer it rose to three quarters of the way up the door before I turned the machine off. I advanced the timer manually to the fast spin position and turned the machine back on. It drained the water quickly but when it moved to the spin cycle it just stopped. This was the same when tested in the slow spin position. I refitted the old timer and it worked as before, with its two new 'off' positions.
Is it likely that the new timer is faulty or is there basic incompatibility between those two almost identical part numbers? If the latter, is it something which can be remedied by different wiring? I didn't receive a wiring diagram with it so I put the individual wires on the same terminals by relative position and checked this twice before testing and once more when removing to refit the original unit which I'm now using.
