Hello everyone and thank you in advance for any advice I receive to this query.
My vehicle is a 1999, Chevy c2500, base model, 5.7 liter, Long bed, Reg cab, 3/4 ton.
I'm rebuilding 100% of my brake lines. I've never done so before on any vehicle but my budget didn't leave me any choice. I've come to learn how difficult GM decided to make it for us with their seemingly random selection of fitting sizes. But I've dealt with that. I've learned very well how to handle all of my bending and I've reproduced the manufactures line almost exactly and I'm pleased with the fit on the vehicle I can achieve. I've purchased not one but actually two flaring tools, because I'm also making a fuel line or two and couldn't cheat a bubble flare out of the double flare tool I started with.
My problem is this. While all of my 1/4 line double flares look and work exactly like they should, my 3/16th lines won't give me a good flare. The flare that comes out of the jig ends up warped to one side creating something that won't seal properly in the fittings.
I'm making square cuts on the line with a plumbing pipe cutter.
I am using the jig in a bench vice.
I am checking very carefully that the yoke is at a precise 90 degrees to the jig and that the line also sticks straight out at 90 degrees to the jig.
I'm carefully filing the, "and have tried using drilling too" the burring away from the inner diameter of the line before I begin using the flaring bit.
I'm using the right bit for the first half of the flaring procedure, although "and I've read others have had this issue" the bit doesn't seat tightly in the brake line but rather moves around a bit in the inner diameter. Something the larger diameter bits don't do in their respective line sizes.
I'm checking the tube length protruding from the jig against the shoulder on the bit as I should.
I'm using a light coating of brake fluid as a lubricant on the brake line and the bit to reduce friction and what not.
And I'm not experiencing any sliding of the tubing out of the jig away from the pressure of the yoke.
So it seems like I'm covering all my bases here, but it still refuses to give me a good flare, and I don't have this problem on any larger diameters.
I've also borrowed several other friends flaring kits and experienced the same trouble. Always with 3/16th line and nothing else.
These kits are all the mechanical hand cranked versions with three parts, separate jigs, yokes and bits. Ranging in price from 20 to 50 dollars. The 400 dollar hydraulic hand held versions are beyond my budget.
Anyone else ever find they had this problem, and what if anything could you do about it?
Please keep in mind that I'm aware I can buy near length pre flared lines with fittings installed and bend them myself. But thanks to GM I'd still have to cut one end and install the old fittings that are the only ones available which will fit the ABS valve assembly. That would leave me still needing to flare the one end of each line, and face to face with my problem again.
Once again, thanks for any help.
UPDATE: I'm in Texas, USA. Our vehicles are subjected to a safety inspection, or a state endorsed scam, however you choose to look at it. Either way, I won't pass the inspection with copper which is illegal in Canada and the U.S.
But I do appreciate the replies so far, and I'm gonna seek out different tubing, harder and softer. I'm using a steel, but its in a coil and should be a semi rigid metal, I'll try some of the straight lengths that should be more rigid, and I'll try some online purchasing of tubing advertized as softer. But I'll be sticking to steel, and possibly an aluminum alloy.
UPDATE#2 I've decided after searching and reading about a 25 forums on this subject that I'll upgrade my flaring tool. I've ordered a RIGID 23337#345 DL Flaring kit. It's the same hand held basic configuration that I've been using but appears to be a favorite among reviewers of these flaring tools. Looking at images of it online it does appear to be made to tighter tolerances. The jig and yoke actually lock together with grooves and corresponding ridges allowing the yoke to only be in the correct position. The jig looks like a much more precise machining produced it. I'll update again after it arrives and I make a few test flares. It's price ranges from about 90 U.S. dollars to 125 depending on where you buy. Doing it this way still beats paying a shop to build the lines.
My new flaring tool has arrived and I've used it to produce some nice flares on my 3/16th lines.
But get this, I can't get the system to bleed now.
Don't know what the problem is, it has a new master cylinder that has been bench bleed. A new Booster. New bleeder screws. The rear brakes bleed fine, but the front won't respond at all to the pedal pump method. Looks like I'll be purchasing a power bleed tool so I can say I've tried it all.
My vehicle is a 1999, Chevy c2500, base model, 5.7 liter, Long bed, Reg cab, 3/4 ton.
I'm rebuilding 100% of my brake lines. I've never done so before on any vehicle but my budget didn't leave me any choice. I've come to learn how difficult GM decided to make it for us with their seemingly random selection of fitting sizes. But I've dealt with that. I've learned very well how to handle all of my bending and I've reproduced the manufactures line almost exactly and I'm pleased with the fit on the vehicle I can achieve. I've purchased not one but actually two flaring tools, because I'm also making a fuel line or two and couldn't cheat a bubble flare out of the double flare tool I started with.
My problem is this. While all of my 1/4 line double flares look and work exactly like they should, my 3/16th lines won't give me a good flare. The flare that comes out of the jig ends up warped to one side creating something that won't seal properly in the fittings.
I'm making square cuts on the line with a plumbing pipe cutter.
I am using the jig in a bench vice.
I am checking very carefully that the yoke is at a precise 90 degrees to the jig and that the line also sticks straight out at 90 degrees to the jig.
I'm carefully filing the, "and have tried using drilling too" the burring away from the inner diameter of the line before I begin using the flaring bit.
I'm using the right bit for the first half of the flaring procedure, although "and I've read others have had this issue" the bit doesn't seat tightly in the brake line but rather moves around a bit in the inner diameter. Something the larger diameter bits don't do in their respective line sizes.
I'm checking the tube length protruding from the jig against the shoulder on the bit as I should.
I'm using a light coating of brake fluid as a lubricant on the brake line and the bit to reduce friction and what not.
And I'm not experiencing any sliding of the tubing out of the jig away from the pressure of the yoke.
So it seems like I'm covering all my bases here, but it still refuses to give me a good flare, and I don't have this problem on any larger diameters.
I've also borrowed several other friends flaring kits and experienced the same trouble. Always with 3/16th line and nothing else.
These kits are all the mechanical hand cranked versions with three parts, separate jigs, yokes and bits. Ranging in price from 20 to 50 dollars. The 400 dollar hydraulic hand held versions are beyond my budget.
Anyone else ever find they had this problem, and what if anything could you do about it?
Please keep in mind that I'm aware I can buy near length pre flared lines with fittings installed and bend them myself. But thanks to GM I'd still have to cut one end and install the old fittings that are the only ones available which will fit the ABS valve assembly. That would leave me still needing to flare the one end of each line, and face to face with my problem again.
Once again, thanks for any help.
UPDATE: I'm in Texas, USA. Our vehicles are subjected to a safety inspection, or a state endorsed scam, however you choose to look at it. Either way, I won't pass the inspection with copper which is illegal in Canada and the U.S.
But I do appreciate the replies so far, and I'm gonna seek out different tubing, harder and softer. I'm using a steel, but its in a coil and should be a semi rigid metal, I'll try some of the straight lengths that should be more rigid, and I'll try some online purchasing of tubing advertized as softer. But I'll be sticking to steel, and possibly an aluminum alloy.
UPDATE#2 I've decided after searching and reading about a 25 forums on this subject that I'll upgrade my flaring tool. I've ordered a RIGID 23337#345 DL Flaring kit. It's the same hand held basic configuration that I've been using but appears to be a favorite among reviewers of these flaring tools. Looking at images of it online it does appear to be made to tighter tolerances. The jig and yoke actually lock together with grooves and corresponding ridges allowing the yoke to only be in the correct position. The jig looks like a much more precise machining produced it. I'll update again after it arrives and I make a few test flares. It's price ranges from about 90 U.S. dollars to 125 depending on where you buy. Doing it this way still beats paying a shop to build the lines.
My new flaring tool has arrived and I've used it to produce some nice flares on my 3/16th lines.
But get this, I can't get the system to bleed now.
Don't know what the problem is, it has a new master cylinder that has been bench bleed. A new Booster. New bleeder screws. The rear brakes bleed fine, but the front won't respond at all to the pedal pump method. Looks like I'll be purchasing a power bleed tool so I can say I've tried it all.
