Do you replace both shock absorbers?

[DIYspanner]

Rear on VW Bora diesel.

I'm going to replace the springs cause the back end is sagging.

I replaced the NSide leaking shock absorber a couple of years ago so the replacement is probably still in good nick.

However there's good deals single and pairs of shockers on ebay.

 

[Burnerman]

Its probably advisable to replace the shocks in pairs - certainly a dealer would say so - but in reality its not really necessary (especially for the MOT) so its really up to you.
Obviously, any shock issue has no effect on sagging.
John

 

[JohnD]

It would have been a good idea a couple of years ago!

I always reckon, in a pair, they're both the same age so if one fails, the next will not be far behind (also do that with the lamp bulbs).

n/s often goes first due to more bumps and ironwork near the curb.

 

[DIYspanner]

Thanks folks.

I think I'll replace both and keep the recent replacement spare.


As far as I'm aware the only test you can do on a shocker absorber is the push/pull test and check for smooth resistance in the movement, the resistance reducing with age as the valve inside fatigues ?

 

[Burnerman]

Its difficult to replicate what actually happens on the car, but the shock should compress relatively easily, but be much, much harder to extend again.
John

 

[Mursal]

As above, also look for oil leaking from the top, any dirt sticking to the tube usually signals loss of oil from the shock, therefore replace.

The test lane over here for the NCT (MOT) has a Mahameter to check the chocks, don't know how it works? And it fails or passes on imbalance (more than 30% = fail) from left to right, so one good and one bad will be a definite failure. Not sure about MOT ..............

 

[AlanE]

Seems as it they vibrate the wheel up to its natural harmonic frequency, and then they measure the decay rate from there to check the damping.

Publication on the system:

www.maha.de/cps/rde/xbcr/SID-DD38BDDC-B9D32C7B/maha/MAHA_Achsdaempfungsfibel_EN.pdf

 

[Avocet]

+1 for replacing both. Chances are, you won't be buying original equipment and all the aftermarket dampers will be valved slightly differently, so if you have one OE on one side and (say) a Monroe on the other, you might find it'll handle slightly differently one way than the other.

That said, there's no legal obligation in the UK to change them in pairs and the MOT test wouldn't be able to pick up the difference.

 

[DIYspanner]

Has anyone used either of these two brands of shock absorber ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351101953567


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Bora-S...ts=Car+Make:VW|Model:Bora&hash=item1c482677b0

Although the second option listing is for front shocks, the seller claims they can supply the rear shocks for a Bora.

 

[Avocet]

No, I haven't used either (never even heard of either, in fact)! However, both seem to claim they're manufactured to ISO9001 and TS16949 - which are both internationally recognised quality standards (the 16949 being specific to the automotive industry and is well-respected). Of course, if they come from China, they can pretty much write what they like on the box though!

Worth trying sources outside eBay too. Eurocarparts tend to do quite good prices, as do a few other online retail giants like GSF.

I've used KYB dampers before (which are proving "ok"). I think highly of Sachs too. Obviously Koni and Bilstein are nearer the top end of the market. Monroe are also well-known and trusted. I find them a bit on the "soggy" side, but perfectly durable.

 

[Burnerman]

+1
The Orient is a law unto itself when providing copied stuff.
The big factors will provide decent gear (the last dampers I got were Spax I think) and the prices are competitive.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

I've decided to get KYB brand rear shocks and springs at a local factors.

About £122 for the lot

 

[DIYspanner]

Job done at long last.


Fitted KYB K-Flex springs which lifted the back end of the car by about 5" so the old ones were well sagged.

Didn't bother with the shocks as they still seemed to be working well.

 

[Agile]

While you are thinking of shocks can anyone make any suggestions for me?

Assuming an average man, not a body builder or farmer or builder!

Just how hard should it be to pull them out again?

I describe these things in kilos force but I am aware that some others cannot visualise that.

Most UK MOT testers push down hard on front wing and see how quickly it comes back up and then make an arbitrary decision on if it "passes" their test!

Tony