En suite stud wall....any specific regs?

[kjacko]

Hi all,
so building an en suite approx 1.7m x 1.7m. I only need to create 2 stud walls as the other 2 walls are one existing internal and one external.

So, here goes:

1. Can i use 3x2 instead of 4x2 for the studs? If so, i assume i can buy a door lining that matches the thickness?
2. 450mm or 600mm centres for the vertical studs?
3. Is insulation required, or simply recommended?
4. We will be installing a steam shower pod and seeing as its sealed and there will be a window installed to the external wall, i was thinking of just using regular 12.5mm plasterboard, skim and then using kitchen/bathroom paint. Any reason not too, considering the shower is a self-contained sealed unit?
5. New toilet will tee into existing soil pipe, obeying the recommendd drop across a certain length. New shower and sink waste will tee into existing family bathroom next door.

I may add questions later, but would be most grateful for any advice offered.

Cheers.

 

[jeds]

Hi all,
so building an en suite approx 1.7m x 1.7m. I only need to create 2 stud walls as the other 2 walls are one existing internal and one external.

So, here goes:

1. Can i use 3x2 instead of 4x2 for the studs? If so, i assume i can buy a door lining that matches the thickness?

Yes

2. 450mm or 600mm centres for the vertical studs?

450 for 9mm board. 600 for 12.5. Personally I'd use 12.5 anyway.

3. Is insulation required, or simply recommended?

Not a requirement for host room but is for any walls that back onto an adjoining habitable room. Personally I'd put some in anyway.

4. We will be installing a steam shower pod and seeing as its sealed and there will be a window installed to the external wall, i was thinking of just using regular 12.5mm plasterboard, skim and then using kitchen/bathroom paint. Any reason not too, considering the shower is a self-contained sealed unit?

Normally I'd use aqua board of tile backer. But here you can use whatever.

5. New toilet will tee into existing soil pipe, obeying the recommendd drop across a certain length. New shower and sink waste will tee into existing family bathroom next door.

Sounds ok.

I may add questions later, but would be most grateful for any advice offered.

Cheers. [/quote

 

[kjacko]

Thanks jeds, appreciate your input.

using 3x2 would allow that little extra for the internal dimensions of the room, the timber is cheaper and as long as i can get a door lining of that width then it seem the better (and c heaper) option.
I'll deffo us 12.5mm board.
Would cellotex board be overkill as insulation do you think?

 

[jeds]

The purpose of the insulation is sound control not thermal. Celotex is no good for that. Should be acoustic mineral for adjoining walls but ordinary would be ok for host walls.

 

[noseall]

4. We will be installing a steam shower pod and seeing as its sealed and there will be a window installed to the external wall, i was thinking of just using regular 12.5mm plasterboard, skim and then using kitchen/bathroom paint. Any reason not too, considering the shower is a self-contained sealed unit?

Presumably after you have beamed aboard your 'pod' you will need to escape via a door along with all that steam, yes/no?

It may be prudent to install an extractor if you don't already have one.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Don't forget the Building Regs Approval either!

 

[noseall]

PS regardless of what is written, 600mm centres are absolute pants.

If you insist on using 75mm x 50mm at least go with 400mm c/c.

Never use anything less than 12.5mm boards. 9.5mm are just there for wendy houses because children can lift them and are handy for making good in tight tolerances.

Put acoustic insulation in the walls particularly if there is a WC in the room.

 

[kjacko]

Thank for the replies guys.

If you insist on using 75mm x 50mm at least go with 400mm c/c

Sounds like you're not a fan of using that sized timber? Do you not think it would suffice for my particular project?

I thought the stud centres were governed by the thickness of board used? I have no problems going to 400mm centres, but then i guess that requires more timber and any saving made would be lost.

If i do use 75x50 then would it be better to make my own door casing?
By my reckoning using 12.5mm plasterboard my wall would be 100mm thick.
How wide would the door casing need to be 100mm to match, so that architrave can sit nicely across the casing and wall? Or slightly wider (106mm) to allow for a 3mm skim to flush to the casing then the arc sits on top?

 

[phatboy]

I recently rebuilt an en-suite, using 3" x 2" timbers, at centres of 60cm with 12.5mm plasterboard outside, and wediboard and tiles inside.

We didnt look for a slimmer door frame, just cut down a deeper one.

Insulation inside the wall is well worth it for the money it costs.....

 

[noseall]

You can buy proprietary door casings to suit 75mm timber.

75mm timber is ok for studding but is more prone to warping and splitting when fixing. Knots and shakes have a greater influence on smaller section timber also. I certainly would be uncomfortable using it on tall, non-standard ceiling heights i.e. 9'-6" for instance.

I like 100mm thick studding. It is reassuringly chunky. For the same reason i detest 600mm centres. I guess i just like building robust.

 

[theoldun]

I like 100mm thick studding. It is reassuringly chunky. For the same reason i detest 600mm centres. I guess i just like building robust.

Just love it nose when you talk dirty. Makes you sound so so sexy.
Regards oldb*gger.

 

[noseall]

Just love it nose when you talk dirty. Makes you sound so so sexy.

Some things are difficult to avoid, you Old Codge!