Space in front of a multi fuel burner

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Im looking to install a multi burner. I know that building regs require 12 inches of hearth in front of the burner (and 6 inches either side). However, Ive heard that if I buy a Clearview burner, then that only needs 9 inches in front of it. Is that true? What other brands allow you to have less space in front of it?
Thanks
 
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I believe the criteria is whether the stove can be used with the door open or not.
If the stove can be used with the door open it must be the 300mm measurement.


Perhaps Richard C will be along soon with his excellent references and links.
 
Thanks. I did read something about "whether the stove can be used with the door open or not". But surely all stoves can be used with the doors open? Ive Googled so much and cant find an answer to this question!
 
RedHerring is correct; technically this 300mm distance can be reduced if the stove is not designed to be run with the door open, but in practice just about all stoves can be run with the door open so I would stick with 300mm; is an extra 75mm really going to matter that much!

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As this comes up so often, I’ve put together this generic post; read the links but note that not all may apply or be relevant to you.

You can DIY a stove install but you need to understand the Building Regs (which changed in October 2010), submit a Building Notice & pay a fee. Your LABC will inspect &, assuming everything is OK, issue a compliance certificate; the BI may want to witness smoke & spillage tests. No compliance certificate may lead to difficulties when you come to sell your property; if cannot produce a compliance certificate in the event of a problem, your insurance company may invalidate your policy & reject any claim.

Lots of archive threads on this, & other things you have to watch out for, here a few links for you to read:
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html
http://www.hetas.co.uk/public/certificates.html
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/pdfs/buidling_regs_consumer leaflet.pdf
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=183614
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=211524
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=242738
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=224751

& some more sobering just in case you think it’s all a load of old tosh:
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/main_pages/news.htm
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...wood-burning-stove-leaks-carbon-monoxide.html
http://www.eveningnews24.co.uk/news/warning_over_heaters_after_norfolk_couple_s_death_1_811099

Also get at least 3 quotes from local independent HETAS installers:
http://www.hetas.co.uk/nearest_member

You might be pleasantly surprised & you should ask yourself if you really want all the hassle & risk getting it wrong; climbing onto the roof with an 8M stainless steel snake on your back is not for the feint hearted!
 
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Thanks. I did read something about "whether the stove can be used with the door open or not". But surely all stoves can be used with the doors open? Ive Googled so much and cant find an answer to this question!

Was it this you read?

Please Note: that if you using an appliance that is designed to run with the doors open then you must have at least 300mm in front of the stove.
 
hotrod: Yes, that's what I read.

My lounge is very small, so every cm counts. If I can prevent the hearth from coming out an additional 7.5cm and prevent people from tripping over it then so much the better.
 
The other alternative is to buy a stove which is designed not to run with the doors open. But as Richard says, you might struggle to find an acceptable one.
 
hotrod: Yes, that's what I read.

My lounge is very small, so every cm counts. If I can prevent the hearth from coming out an additional 7.5cm and prevent people from tripping over it then so much the better.

MI's overide generic BRegs. So my advice (from personal experience) is find a unit you like and before you commit yourself study the installation manual, paying particular attention to aperture sizes, clearances, flue and ventilation requirements etc. After doing so, anything you're still not 100% clear about speak to the manufacturer direct.

hth
 
Thanks guys. This is going off topic slightly, but Im getting overwhelmed by the number of brands out there, and you guys seem to know about multiburners: What brand of stove would you recommend that is efficient and will stay hot overnight? Clearview seems to be what people are recommending, but then others say they are overpriced. Im going in circles with this!
 
Resurrecting an oldish thread!

We've bought a Charnwood country four and, after having three seperate quotes/opinions etc, we're still unsure as whether we DIY it. My brother is a Builder and his thoughts are that so long as BC clears it then it's safe. We've read through Part J and the parts that are relevant and the main sticking point for us at the mo is the air gap between the stove and the recess fireplace. The installation manual recommends 6" to the sides, 3" to the rear and 12" to the top The rear gap is a cinch but we can only meet half the measurements to the sides and top. the third guy who popped along to have a look installs with BC approval and not HETAS and didn't seem to think it would be a problem. He mentioned so long as there is a 2" gap that would suffice. Also, how do we decide whetehr we need to backfill it with vermiculite? The first installer said not to and the other two didn't mention it!! Agghhh!!! Any help appreciated please...
 
Did you not check the stove manufacturer’s requirements before you bought it? :confused: Have you contacted the manufacturer for their advice? As Hotrod said, the manufacturer’s installation instructions will always take precedence & if you ignore them, you will probably invalidate your stove warranty but are also likely to invalidate your house insurance if there is a problem associated with it on which you subsequently make a claim.

The stove is not designed to be inset & the gaps are obviously there to provide air circulation. Without the recommended gaps
a) the stove may overheat possibly causing damage to the stove
b) the walls surrounding the stove will get rather hotter which again, may cause damage to the surrounding render & even the brickwork.

What did the HETAS registered installers advise? A builder’s opinion is irrelevant & if you go the non registered/LABC certification route, I cannot imagine any BI going against MI's & certainly not against regulations. I’d be very suspicious & if you go down the non registered builder route, make sure he actually makes a Building Notice submission (or better still do the submission yourself) & make sure a BI is actually involved; some builders ignore BR’s & tell lies about BN submissions. Please be careful what you do next.

Having said all that, the fire opening could possibly be opened out depending on construction, sometimes there is also an inner lining course of brickwork making it easier still. I assume you’re referring to backfilling the flue liner; if so then I advise you do it (loose backfill is sufficient), it helps maintain flue temperature through the stack giving better draught, stove efficiency & keeps flue gas temperatures up reducing acidic condensation near the top of the flue.
 
Hi Richard, thanks for the input. As for the stove, all three installers said that so long as a 2" gap is all around then it's fine. This is the trouble, you ask something, are told it's okay by those 'in the know' only to find out it's wrong. The second guys had suggested not fitting a stove into the recess but to put in a vertical register plate and have the stove sitting on a hearth outside of it. This would solve the air gap problem but would it then need to be the 840mm hearth arrangement or still the 6" either side and 12" to the front. also, we'd have to use the rear outlet but what type of connection would we use? a horizontal pipe not more than 150mm and then into the flexi liner? Thanks for your advice.
 
Hi Richard, thanks for the input. As for the stove, all three installers said that so long as a 2" gap is all around then it's fine.
As Hotrod said, the manufacturer’s installation instructions will always take precedence & if you ignore them, you will probably invalidate your stove warranty but are also likely to invalidate your house insurance if there is a problem associated with it on which you subsequently make a claim.
I would still advise you contact the stove manufacturer & if they say it’s OK, get it in writing!
 

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