What is the throat on a woodburner Please?

[Ladybrickie]

Reg sez the ventilation brick in the room containing a solid fuel appliance need be 50% free space of the throat area of the appliance/fire. I'm hoping I'm right here!
What, please, is considered the throat?

In addition, can the 'airbrick' be put directly at the back of the chimney and have a duct from it (ie. from the outside) to the point just in front of the appliance so air is drawn directly into it, thus avoiding draughts in the room (like in old victorian houses have). Thanks very much, Cas.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Baffle plate (the plate positioned below the flue outlet)
Sometimes know as Throat Plate.

 

[Ladybrickie]

Baffle plate (the plate positioned below the flue outlet)
Sometimes know as Throat Plate.

Hi, thanks for that. So am I to assume that I measure the outlet of the woodburner, ie the size of the chimney leading away from it, do a sum and buy an airbrick with clearspace at least 50% of that measurement? Thankx, Cas

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

What is the make/model you have?

 

[Ladybrickie]

What is the make/model you have?

Hi thanks for your help
,
We haven't got it yet. We haven't built anything above damp but I am designing the flue and chimney and need to know how big an airbrick/ventilation thingy I need and where it needs to go. It will be a standard size flue away from it, to join a Hanson/Redbank pumice flue (175mm int 235mm ext) My OH says I can calculate it from the size of the air intake on a woodburner but I think the throat is the part at the back as the products of combustion leave the appliance and calculate from that the size of the vent.

I also need to know if i can put it at the back of the chimney base so the air can be drawn straight in and feed the fire. The guide I have says it needs to be in the room only.

I can probably ask in a woodburner shop but have been caught out in the past by listening to someone that wants to sell something they have on the shelf instead of the thingy the BCO would approve of! Thanks for your help, C

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

What I would do first is decide on the appliance you want, then get appropriate MI (manufacturers Instructions) as these are best followed. They are not always the same.
Then if the BCO does dispute any guidelines or compliances, you can offer the MI as back up to your work.

 

[Ladybrickie]

Mmmmm....not a bad idea. Practice defensive building! Bonzer idea! I think that is the best way to go. I will have a word with BCO too. Thanks for your help, that wouldn't have occurred to me! X C (I can leave a kiss cos I am a girl assuming you are a blokie!)

 

[Richard C]

You obviously realise its controlled building work your doing so I won’t bore you with HETAS vs notifying & all that stuff that but I would avoid the stove shops at all costs, they will most likely rip you off.

Be careful with the finishing works & using conventional Gypsum plaster anywhere around the fire, it won’t t stand the heat!

 

[Ladybrickie]

Thanks for that.
The bit about deciding what coloured curtains you are going to have in your upstairs lav so you know where to put the blocks on the damp course is messing with my melon quite frankly! Thanks for all the help. I'm finding my BCO almost never available and virtually uncontactable most of the time! X C

 

[Richard C]

Thanks for that. The bit about deciding what coloured curtains you are going to have in your upstairs lav so you know where to put the blocks on the damp course is messing with my melon quite frankly! Thanks for all the help.

Hmmm; WTF is your problem Ladybrickie

I'm finding my BCO almost never available and virtually uncontactable most of the time! X C

So why use them

 

[Ladybrickie]

Hi, I wasn't being sarcastic or rude. You have mis interpreted my meaning
I meant that with building, you have to think in 3D right from the get go. What you do at the bottom, matters at the top, that was all I was saying. I am grateful for the help and advice.
I have no choice but to use a BCO do I?