Connecting to sewer

[marsaday]

I met with the water rep this week and i dont need to make a manhole for my new soil pipe connection to the sewer, so just need to add in a junction.

I have fully uncovered the pipe in the ground and it isnt covered in cement and all is ok with it, apart from the fact that from collar to collar it is pretty short.

I think there isnt room to add a new clay junction and two flexible couplers at each end.

Any ideas on what i do here ?

Toolstation do a flexible tee in a size too small so i wondered if you could get a bigger flexible connector?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roo...lexible+Equal+Tee+105116mm/d250/sd2849/p50188

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[Hugh Jaleak]

Do a bit more digging chap, then cut as required. Doesnt matter how long the sections are either side of the junction. You mention a clay junction, are the Water Co. insisting the connection is done in clay?

 

[Skimmers]

yep cut out some some pipe but cut it wet and take your time coz if its brittle
it will crack..

Just pull back about 2ft/3ft all round the pipe this will give you a nice working space to cut and fix pipe. mite be better to fit a mini chamber good plan as its a extra roding point..
anfter you finish back fill with gravel

 

[marsaday]

The digging so far is to expose the pipe. Not finished yet and need to dig a branch.

Yes water company prefer the clay.

I am still not clear on whether i need to gig to the right or left more. surely i need to in order to cut away from a collar because the length is so short the flexi couplers will be binding on the collar and will need to bind onto pipe. So i will need to cut into another section of the pipe to the left or right side of those collars (doesnt matter which side). Hope i am making myself understood about this.

When you say cut it wet, do you use a bucket of water or do you mean cut with a still saw with water coming out ?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

They look like 2ft (long) pipes, so I'd aim to make the cuts midway between the collars. You'll probably need to use a couple of short pieces of pipe either side of the junction to make the gap up, (appreciate this means buying a length of clayware pipe), as I cant see there being enough room on the spigots of the clay junction to slide the collars onto the spigots, then back onto the existing salt glazed pipe.

Using water whilst cutting will help keep dust down, although googles are a must IMO. (Can get small bits flying off in all directions.) Use of dust mask is probably advised as well. Dont forget to chamfer ends of pipe when cut, and avoid any 'lips' or sharp edges on the internal bore where detritus could catch. A garden spray bottle may suffice, cutting area needs to be kept damp but not soaking.

If not fitting a chamber at the junction, make sure you provide access along the new run in both directions, down to junction and back to stack.

 

[marsaday]

Thanks hugh

So i need to cut out one collar in order to get my joint in properly. Thats what i was thinking.

The water guy said i dont need to do a chamber though, just make rodding provision on the stack, which is about 1m away on the wall of the house and will be close to the ground level, so about 80cm higher than the level of the pit.

Is this what you mean by access or is there something else i need to provide ?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Rodding eye on the base of the stack would be fine, especially if its only a short run to the drain. (Dont forget to use a long radius bend at the foot of the stack!) As long as there is provision to rod/jet the run in the event of a blockage then thats all you need to do. (Otherwise you're faced with cutting into a stack or drain to get access at a later date if something goes wrong!)

 

[marsaday]

Got you. I have bought my rodding Tee bit, so that is covered and i also have my swept bend with feet on it for the base.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Flexseal collars will slip on 'dry' but dont forget to use a suitable pipe lubricant to assist with the other joints, otherwise you'll struggle to get the collars on, and may even displace the seals!

Good luck!