Lintle Fire Protection

[TheHandyAndy]

Hi all,

I'm after some advice, I have 4 steel cavity lintles that I need to protect from the weather, but more importantly I need to give them 30 minutes fire protection.

On my plans, it says to use fireboard and a skim finish. I am going to bond the fire board to the lintle, no problems there. The problem being I need to protect these from the weather, so to stop the fire board getting soaked in the rain, what can I use to give the skim finish?

To put you in the picture, I've had a second story extension build, one side is tied into the gable end of the house, the other end of the extension is on 3 big pillars, thus giving me a carport type area to use as outdoor covered storage. Thus where the lintles are, they are exposed to the weather.

Many thanks,

Andy.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

You don't fit fireboard outside, only inside. Prey tell what is the wall construction cavity/solid, is it brick or rendered block outer skin and what kind of lintels have been specified?

 

[TheHandyAndy]

You don't fit fireboard outside, only inside. Prey tell what is the wall construction cavity/solid, is it brick or rendered block outer skin and what kind of lintels have been specified?

Thank you for showing interest. The wall is standard construction, outer face is normal brick, to match the rest of the house, 100mm insulated cavity, then block work on the inside face of the wall.

Lintles are galvanised steel.

Link to my plans: http://www.siryfflint.gov.uk/wps/po...MUE0QjRGNENDRDVBM0M1ODgwMjU3OTU3MDAxRDI5MkQ!/

I need something, or some way of giving the exposed underside of the lintles 30 minutes fire protection.

 

[hotrod]

Loads of details here, fill yer boots:-

http://www.promat.co.uk/applications/partitions-external-walls.aspx

 

[TheHandyAndy]

Thanks Hotrod, very helpful.

I spoke to a company and they asked if the lintles had holes in, they do, in the area where the cavity is, but 2 of the lintles also have polystyrene in that is only glued into place. So I've got to fill the holes with something first now.

I was thinking, could I bond some more galzanised steel to the bottom of the lintles, then once cured, paint with flame retardant paint?

Any advice anyone?

 

[RedHerring2]

I don't know if it's a similar situation, but I was able to render the outside of the garage door lintel, 'cos the blocks were sitting on the lintel.
On the underside I stuck uPVC soffit board. I used a builders adhesive and held it in place, with acro props, for about 48 hours.
That was about three years ago and there's no sign of it moving in the slightest.

 

[^woody^]

This is going to be awkward, and your designer should have given this more thought

You are correct in that anything just stuck on the bottom of the lintel has the potential to get wet from rainwater run-off from above, and in any case just adhering some board to the lintel soffit will just mean that it falls off in a fire situation

The best solution may be a coating with an intumescent paint (not just flame retardant). The polystyrene can be removed and void filled with an intumescent expanding foam.

But you need to confirm this with your inspector

 

[TheHandyAndy]

Thanks Woody.

This is the last thing I need to complete before sign off. I did think about just sticking some PVC type board to it and blagging it about the 30 minutes fire protection, but I've done everything by the book and in most cases exceeded regulations just for peace of mind. I don't want to skimp on the last item.

These lintles are now causing me a huge headache. I think that the paint is the way forward, and will probably include removing the polystyrene and filling the gap with something else, can you suggest what type of foam to use? But, at least the small holes will be dealt with and I'll be able to paint the lintle fully.

 

[TheHandyAndy]

I don't know if it's a similar situation, but I was able to render the outside of the garage door lintel, 'cos the blocks were sitting on the lintel.
On the underside I stuck uPVC soffit board. I used a builders adhesive and held it in place, with acro props, for about 48 hours.
That was about three years ago and there's no sign of it moving in the slightest.

I though about doing this Red, but I need to have 30 minutes fire protection or it would probably invalidate my buildings cover should the worst happen....

 

[ryme64]

I don't know if it's a similar situation, but I was able to render the outside of the garage door lintel, 'cos the blocks were sitting on the lintel.
On the underside I stuck uPVC soffit board. I used a builders adhesive and held it in place, with acro props, for about 48 hours.
That was about three years ago and there's no sign of it moving in the slightest.

I dont think that UPVC is fire proof.

 

[RedHerring2]

...On the underside I stuck uPVC soffit board. ....

I dont think that UPVC is fire proof.

It's not meant to be. It's on the outside of the building,
and as fmt, mentioned, you don't need to fireproof the outside of the building.

You don't fit fireboard outside, only inside. ....

The garage door is fitted to the inside of the reveals.