Quick alternative to concrete slab?

[Trefusia]

Hi all,
This is my first post, so bear with me if I inadvertently do or say something silly
Recently bought a 3 bed victorian semi-detached in need of a complete renovation, so that's what I'm tackling at the mo - pics will follow!
My question relates to the kitchen, where the existing floor is a wonky, crumbling (possibly original?) concrete slab that I will excavate.
I have learned now that laying a new concrete slab will take a long time to set and as I am keen to get the kitchen done as soon as possible I was wondering if there is an alternative I could use (block-and-beam perhaps?) in order to progress quickly. I need a stable base, as I am planning to install UFH on top of it.
Any tipps appreciated!

Thx

 

[noseall]

Lay a conventional floor and keep the windows open etc, as it will dry relatively quickly in this weather.

The floor need not be bone dry to fit a kitchen as the base units sit on plastic legs and it is unlikely that you will be fitting the kick boards in any case.

If the floor covering turned out to be say ceramic tiles laid on cement based adhesive, then it is not critical that the slab be completely dry.

 

[Trefusia]

Hi
Cheers for getting back to me -
It would be great if I could just use normal screed, but the UFH company makes it sound as if it would have to be completely dry before I can install the pipes on top - I suppose it's because when they're warmed up they will dry out the screed further and it could cause cracks (?).
How long do you reckon I need to let it dry before laying the insulation and UFH on top?

 

[ei8htbuildingservices]

why not fit timber joists if timing is of the essence!

 

[^woody^]

Hi
I suppose it's because when they're warmed up they will dry out the screed further and it could cause cracks (?).

Here's an idea .... fit the pipes and don't turn the heating on!

 

[JimLoskot]

I think the issue is because the insulation has a vapour barrier ontop of it which the UFH pipes sit on, so any moisture left in the slab will trapped there.
I am having a similar dilema at the moment myself.
Is there an addative that speeds up the curing of the slab?

 

[mointainwalker]

@Trefusia

Rule of thumb is one day per mm for the slab.

@JimL

I have read a discussion on a specialist UFH forum that concluded that there are two elements as regards a slab.

1) Curing time
2) Drying time.

the discussion was that a slab cures in approx three weeks but the drying time is usually about eight weeks ( assume 50 mm slab)

In a normal slab the curing time is unimportant as you can't dry it any quicker so the drying time is the only time talked about.

With UFH however, you can heat the slab after the curing time and then dry it out quicker.

This is not universally accepted so it's up to you whether you use it, also, unless you have access to professional equipment, I don't know how you would judge when the slab was dry enough to tile/glue onto.

 

[Trefusia]

Thanks for all the suggestions -
I think I'll start digging up the floor A.S.A.P. and do other bits on the house whilst the screed is drying; will keep the timber option in mind, in case I come across more obstacles!

Cheers

 

[ei8htbuildingservices]

If you do go for the timber option make sure theres adequate ventilation for under the floor.