Painting newly boarded/multifinished/bonded wall. Advice?

[CluelessDIYer1]

I'm just wwonderring how soon we can get to paintingg these walls. Oh & if you're seeing a load of double letters my keyboard is acting up.

We had our living room re-plastered a couple of weeks ago & the majority seems to have dried out. It's plasterboarded in parts, it's bonded in parts & it's had multifinish on it in parts, although by the looks (colour) of it i'd guess the entire top coat is multifinish - sound right?

The majority has faded to a pasty pinky sort of colour. The bits that are still dark are where they used Thistle Bonding (excuse the images - we've no lighting to had to use camera flash)...





* Do we have to wait until that dries out fully & comes the colour of the rest of the wall? If so that's no problem. I'm just wondering when would be good to start painting?



On the topic of which - how do you hit it to begin with?

* What type of paint are we looking at? Emulsion, Eggshell, Silk, Vinyl etc etc.

* I believe it needs to be watered down (to what ratio?) for the first (1? 2? 3? coats).

* I take it this watered paint acts as the primer & you don't need a separate primer?

* Since you're just watering down the first X-amount of coats, so long as it's the right type (eggshell, emulsion etc (whatever the right type is)) does it really matter on the quality? Such as - some of Wilkinsons cheap & not-so-cheerful paint would do fine to layer up before it comes time for the 'proper' top coat?

I think that's it for the questioning.

Oh the ceiling needs to get done too, but that hasn't dried out properly yet as it's only just been done. Do you use the same type of paint for the ceiling?

 

[dcdec]

You do need to let the whole thing dry out. Bonded areas will always take longer to dry.

Best measures for the plaster is watered down contract matt, it depends on the thickness of the paint but no less than 20% and no more than 30% dilution is normally about right.
Dulux supermatt, gliddens contract (light blue tub), mcphersons eclipse are all good and quite cheap, couldn't really say about the super cheap stuff. One coat is sufficient. This will show up any flaws in the plaster so fill these areas, rub down and prime with the same paint you've just used. No other primer/sealer is required and you would use the same system regardless of the finish coat (unless it was oil based which needs alkali resisting primer first on the plaster).
Do exactly the same with the ceiling.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

You do need to let the whole thing dry out. Bonded areas will always take longer to dry.

Why is the multifinished areas where the beads are taking ages to dry? I can still see the skim beads underneath, or rather wet/dark marks where the holes are on the bead.
That aside it's only the bonding areas that are still dark. I've no problem waiting.

Best measures for the plaster is watered down contract matt, it depends on the thickness of the paint but no less than 20% and no more than 30% dilution is normally about right.

20%-30% water to 80%-70% paint or vice versa? Sorry, dim question i know, but just checking.

One coat is sufficient.[/b] Thanks, i'd have done 2 watered coats at least

prime with the same paint you've just used.

Just straight paint i'm taking it? Not watered down? Just checking.

Do exactly the same with the ceiling.

Thanks.

I think it's been maybe 3 weeks now since the walls were done. Wanting it to get a wriggle on so that we can paint & then put the radiators back on as well as the blinds.

 

[CluelessDIYer1]

The other one i forgot----

Out of interest, would you use brush or roller? I'm not asking you to tell me what to use, just what would you use?

I thought about rollers - there seems to be a helluva lotta paint wastage. You're forever cleaning that thing out. Just seems to be so much paint going down the sink rather than where you want it to be going.

 

[dcdec]

Beaded areas are often close to windows and doors where the ambient temperature is lower and sometimes they just take longer to dry. On some occasions the beads stain the surface and this is solved with a coat of stain block like coverstain (mist first tho).

20-30 % water to 70-80% paint

Prime with the watered down paint

Rolling is far more efficient on time and when done well is a better finish than a load of criss crossed brush marks.
Scrape excess off the roller back into the paint tub before rinsing, and if you're going to use the roller with the same colour within a couple of days wrap it in clingfilm or similar and store it somewhere cool.

Not aimed at you clueless i'm happy to help, but i'm done with answering new plaster questions until this forum gets some stickies sorted, the same questions keep coming up time after time and we're constantly repeating ourselves.