12v halogen kitchen lights not working properly ?

[swayzak]

Hi

I moved into my house 3 years ago.

The kitchen has those 12v halogen spots - the ones flush with ceiling & spring clip to release the bulb.

One of them is very temperamental - it works for a bit, then goes dead.

If I wiggle it in the connector it works again e.g. push it all the way in, or pull it half way.

Then it will go off again after a short while.

The bulb is OK as it works in other sockets. The terminals on the bulb are rather dark (?carbonised) - not sure if this is relevant.

This happened to the neighboring bulb a year or two ago - I ended up replacing the box the connecting wires are attached to (?transformer). This worked for a bit, but then it played up again. But recently that bulb has been behaving.

It's quite frustrating - what could be causing this ?


thanks

 

[ericmark]

From the start the pins used with extra low voltage lamps have been a problem.

The heat and power is far too much for the small pins used.

The GU10 low voltage lamps have a far better connection and I would unless forced by regulations use low voltage rather than extra low voltage lamps I would fit low voltage (230v) lamps.

Replacing the fitting will likely remove the problem for the time being. But likely it will return. So you have to decide if replacing the fitting or modifying the system is the way forward.

I have some pods which have run problem free for 10 years with ELV and you if the units are cooled as manufactures instructions may find the same. But with units installed within the ceiling void likely the cooling is not enough and only you can decide if this is a problem and if the system needs changing.

 

[swayzak]

From the start the pins used with extra low voltage lamps have been a problem.

The heat and power is far too much for the small pins used.

The GU10 low voltage lamps have a far better connection and I would unless forced by regulations use low voltage rather than extra low voltage lamps I would fit low voltage (230v) lamps.

Replacing the fitting will likely remove the problem for the time being. But likely it will return. So you have to decide if replacing the fitting or modifying the system is the way forward.

I have some pods which have run problem free for 10 years with ELV and you if the units are cooled as manufactures instructions may find the same. But with units installed within the ceiling void likely the cooling is not enough and only you can decide if this is a problem and if the system needs changing.

Thanks

So is it the bulbs or connector that is causing this ? Is the apparent blackening of the pins relevant ?

And why do most of the bulbs (both in kitchen & hall, where there are 8 more) work OK ?

What are "pods" ?

 

[swayzak]

Would replacing with LED bulbs help ?

If so what would be a direct replacement for 50w GU5.3 12v bulbs (in terms of wattage etc.) ?]


thanks

 

[timtheenchanter]

7W is supposed to be around a 50W equivalent, but be aware most of these are longer than the normal 50W lamps, so may not fit your fitting (thats why we don't stock them)

the 5.4W LEDs are about a 35W, and the 4W about a 20W, these are also slightly longer than notral lamps, but still fit the majority of fittings with a bit of fiddling.

you may also need to change your transformer/power supply, depending on the type, if its the older transformer, it will need changing as the voltage is not controlled in these, so you would cook your 12V LED lamps, the newer inverter may or may not be ok, some do not like the very low load of LED.

 

[swayzak]

7W is supposed to be around a 50W equivalent, but be aware most of these are longer than the normal 50W lamps, so may not fit your fitting (thats why we don't stock them)

the 5.4W LEDs are about a 35W, and the 4W about a 20W, these are also slightly longer than notral lamps, but still fit the majority of fittings with a bit of fiddling.

you may also need to change your transformer/power supply, depending on the type, if its the older transformer, it will need changing as the voltage is not controlled in these, so you would cook your 12V LED lamps, the newer inverter may or may not be ok, some do not like the very low load of LED.

Thanks, that 's helpful.

Could you/anyone else advise re. the reason behind my problem ?

Specifically why these 2 particular bulbs go off - is it related to positioning with respect to the circuitry involved ?

And why does just wiggling / repositioning them in the lamp holder bring them back to life for a few hours ? It suggests some sort of deposition on the pins which affects the power transmission to the bulb ?

 

[Luckyphil]

Just nip to any Wholesaler (Not B&Q/Screwfix) and ask for some MR16 Flying Leads and replace it , i`ve found in my Kitchen the Lampholders/Leads that go 1st are the one`s sited above the Hob , The Steam mus`nt help I suppose , and thats with a decent Extractor above the Hob !!

Lucky