Bathroom Extractor with timer & humidstat wiring

[chamfer]

I am fitting a Extractor with timer & humidstat in bathroom outside all zones

The manufacture has asked for a double pole switch & has suggested this diagram for the wiring

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Would I be OK going with this wiring?

 

[ekmdgrf]

So the manufacturer advised a double pole switch? I don't think plugwash's diagram was quite what they had in mind. Nevertheless, I don't see a double pole switch on their diagram either...

Off hand, I can't see anything wrong with plugwash's design, other than he needs to learn that the if you press the shift key while drawing lines in Paint, then it draws them straight for you.

JB needs to be either MF or accessible, of course.

 

[JohnW2]

So the manufacturer advised a double pole switch? I don't think plugwash's diagram was quite what they had in mind.

I don't think that plugwash's diagram had anything to do with the manufacturer wanting a double pole switch (they're more likely have called for a '3-pole isolator', anyway) - I think the DP switch is all about getting both the L and S/L to the fan protected by a 3A FCU (which the manufacturer probably also called for!) without having to fiddle with (insert the FCU in) the supply feed to the light.

Kind Regards, John

 

[chamfer]

A double pole switch is what they have asked for, do you know a better way other than plugwash drawing?

 

[AndyPRK]

It's a touchy subject lol and difficult to agree on.

If the manufacture is asking for a 3a fuse to be fitted go with the diagram above.

If they are only asking for a double pole switch then fit a triple pole switch to the wires to the fan.

 

[JohnW2]

A double pole switch is what they have asked for, do you know a better way other than plugwash drawing?

As as already been said, that's a bit odd since their diagram includes only a single-pole switch! 'Double-pole switch' usually implies switching of both live/line and neutral. However, with a timer fan there are two lives (L and S/L) as well as neutral, so manufacturers usually specify a 3-pole switch/isolator.

Whatever, plugwash's diagram would satisfy the manufacturer's requirement, since the switched FCU would qualify as the 'double pole switch' they ask for. the other DP switch (labelled 'DP pull cord' in plugwas's diagram) being the light (and fan initiating) switch.

Kind Regards, John

 

[AndyPRK]

The single pole switch in the diagram is the light switch and they haven't shown a double pole switch !!!

 

[JohnW2]

The single pole switch in the diagram is the light switch and they haven't shown a double pole switch !!!

Quite so:

As as already been said, that's a bit odd since their diagram includes only a single-pole switch!

... and, unless one converts the light switch to a DP one (per plugwash) one would need a 3-pole switch/isolator to achieve 'all-pole' isolation of the fan.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ekmdgrf]

A double pole switch is what they have asked for, do you know a better way other than plugwash drawing?

It might be being a bit pedantic but it seems to me that when they asked for a double pole switch, using one pole to switch the fan and one to switch the light wasn't quite what they had in mind. It'd be a bit like only wiring up one pole and then saying "A DP switch was what you asked for a and a DP switch you received". It's hard to know what exactly they had in mind as their diagram didn't actually include a DP switch but the only sensible arrangement of DP isolation would be to isolate line and switched line. As this is provided by a single pole switch and a JB, while it does provide isolation it doesn't really meet the manufactures instructions. On the other hand, the SFCU does provide dual pole isolation and one might argue, given the downstream switch, in effect three-pole but then does SFCU == switch? Perhaps it would have been better for the manufacturer to state "means to isolate live conductors". *

TL;DR: I can't see anything wrong with plugwash's diagram.

* Please let's not get started on the do we need to isolate the neutral conductor debate.

 

[JohnW2]

It's hard to know what exactly they had in mind as their diagram didn't actually include a DP switch but the only sensible arrangement of DP isolation would be to isolate line and switched line.

I doubt that's what they meant - I've never seen a fan's MIs suggest such an arrangement. I wonder if the OP is reading the right MI, or the right part of the MI, or perhaps misunderstanding something? When they mention isolation, IME the MIs always call for DP isolation (L & N) of non-timer fans and 3-pole isolation (L, S/L and N) of timer fans - in both cases, they mean 'all-pole isolation' (including neutral).

* Please let's not get started on the do we need to isolate the neutral conductor debate.

I don't think you can get away from it - as above, I've never seen MIs for a fan which specify an isolator without requiring it to isolate N as well as L(s) (2-pole for non-timer, 3-pole for timer models).

Kind Regards, John

 

[chamfer]

pic of instruction

 

[GaryGarden]

Fig 8 is showing the connection to the light not the DP or any other means of total isolation. I think for isolation you need to be looking at one of the other diagrams 5, 6, or 7. But if the model is the CRZ then like others have said I would be looking to put in 3 pole isolation.

Edit: Just looked at the manual on TLC site only shows DP isolation on 1 model???????

 

[chamfer]

It is the CHZ Model

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[JohnW2]

pic of instruction

Hmmmm - it looks as if they have copies the bit about a "double pole switch with 3mm contact separation" from some manufacturer's instructions for a non-timer fan, and have not noticed that manufacturer's of fans with timers almost invariable call for a 3-pole switch/isolator with 3mm contact separation! What make (and nationality) is this fan?

Kind Regards, John

 

[chamfer]

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