Connecting a NEST Thermostat to Potterton Condensing Boiler

Joined
1 Dec 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
I am trying to connect my new Nest Thermostat to:

Potterton Suprima 60 HE - Condensing Central Heating Boiler
(Manual: http://www.potterton.co.uk/docs/101209_Potterton_Suprima_HE_Range_installer_guide.pdf, see page 30 for wiring)

Honeywell ST7100 Control Unit (http://www.honeywelluk.com/products/Discontinued-Products/ST7100/)

Honeywell Thermostat (1 zone only)

Wired in a C-Plan configuration - Gravity DHW (I think, as there's a water tank in the loft), for Hot Water and Pumped Central Heating System.

 
Sponsored Links
If your existing thermostat has the usual Neutral, live and switched live connections then the Nest remote unit (Which they call the heat link) simply replaces it.

Does your existing controls allow you to have heating on but hot water off? If not then that may be a problem.

If you can have heating on, but hot water off then (with the power off), slacken the little screw on the top of the thermostat and pull the cover off and see what wires you have, or post up a picture of it. If it is conventionally wired you just replace with the heat link unit as shown on page 34 of the manual. Clicky-> https://s3.amazonaws.com/support-as...ges/Nest-Thermostat-Installation-Guide-UK.pdf

Then set your existing programmer to heating constantly on and let the nest do it's stuff.

I have bought one, but it is still in it's box until the 25th.
 
I have the same thermostat and, I'm pretty sure, a Y-plan system.

Whilst I think (so far - still researching it) that swapping out the wall mounted thermostat should be the easy option, I'd rather put the Nest controller where the current thermostat is.

So, my thoughts are to buy a 0.5m length of the same cable that runs from the junction box (situated in the a/c) to the thermostat, and connect the heat link to the other end, mounting it in the a/c too.
Then, I will use the existing thermostat cable to run the 12V from the heatlink to the nest thermostat.

Does this make sense?



wires: earth, 1 = L, 2 = N, 3 = L (switched)
 
just to follow up.... all fitted quite easily over the weekend - including replacing the old thermostat with the NEST one, using the existing wiring to run 12V to it from the Heat Link, that I mounted next to the junction box in the airing cupboard

GALLERY]
 
Sponsored Links
no - was redecorating the hall, so good excuse to swap out the stat

Didn't think to do the wall properly, instead of using that hideous white plate? ;)

Regarding Nest in general, as I would like to look at one of these 'smart' solutions, I've seen that the control end, if replacing a wireless stat, needs power from a normal socket.

Is that a joke? I'd rather have no heating than a cable running up the wall from a socket! Plus, I have no socket in the hallway (and don't want one there!), where stats 'traditionally' go.
 
Yes that's correct. Whilst the stat talks to the receiver wirelessly, it still requires a permanent 12V supply.

If there are no wires already in the wall then you will need to either install some, or run a lead to a socket.

It's not a truly wireless device.
 
nothing's truly wireless, is it.

i had mains wires and heat switching wires for the old stat already in the wall, so re-used them for a 12V supply

re the white plate... I will remove that eventually, but will need to patch and paint the wall first
 
Yes that's correct. Whilst the stat talks to the receiver wirelessly, it still requires a permanent 12V supply.
Because at heart it remains something designed from the ground up to work with heating systems we don't use in this country.


If there are no wires already in the wall then you will need to either install some, or run a lead to a socket.

It's not a truly wireless device.
Do they not do a battery powered one? :rolleyes:
 
I would guess that the nest control module is considerablly more power hungry than a regular roomstat and so a battery option was impractical.
 
I would guess that the nest control module is considerablly more power hungry than a regular roomstat and so a battery option was impractical.

Particularly if you're using wifi.

It doesn't have to be wall mounted though. It could be on the stand in a suitable place and plugged into a socket
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top