Cooker Hood Wiring

[Willyeckerslike]

Hi all,

My cooker hood gave up the ghost so I ordered a new one which is basically the same as my old one but is an updated model, it is a Baumatic BT6.3GL. The problem is that the old hood had 2 wires & the new hood has an earth wire too. The wire coming out of my wall has an earth wire which is cut back slightly. I want to know if this is connected at the other end & if not is there an "easy" way without me tracing it to find this out?.

thanks

Will

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you can strip the sheath back so you have enough bare copper cable on the earth, then you can add extra length to it, using a single connection block.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON5.html So the cable will then reach it's terminal in the hood. The earth should have green/yellow PVC sheathing over it, for identification.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAGS3slash10.html

 

[17thman]

If you can strip the sheath back so you have enough bare copper cable on the earth, then you can add extra length to it, using a single connection block.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON5.html So the cable will then reach it's terminal in the hood. The earth should have green/yellow PVC sheathing over it, for identification.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAGS3slash10.html[/QUOTE]

indeed.

However, i would not wan to connect up a class1 item of equipment to a circuit where the earth continuity and loop impedance had not been checked.

To Willy If you can exactly what prentice has said that is good.

Should you want to check the earth continuity, then (with the power isolated, extend the earth from a local lighting point to the fan connection position and measure for continuity with a basic contuity tester from a local store.

This may satisfy you, but you will still have no may to measure the earth loop impendance.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

17thman fair point, which I should have pointed out.
You would indeed need to prove continuity of the CPC (earth conductor) and measure r1+r2 also insulation resistance, Ze & Zs, amongst over tests should be considered. Without continuity to earth the remedial work will be pointless and without continuity there is a risk!

 

[Willyeckerslike]

thanks for the replies,

I have stripped back the sheath and connected it to the hood using a connection block and the hood works fine. It is just I don't know if the other end of the earth wire is connected or not. This was fitted a few years back by an electrician when we had an extension built so I would presume it would be earthed & then cut back when it was not needed on the old hood. I am not quite sure what a continuity tester is but I will go to B&Q to get one if needed to test the earth wire is connected at the other end.

Will

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Don't assume anything!
A simple multi-meter will test for continuity but will not give readings for Zs. Which is important regarding conformity and disconnection times.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:inspection_and_testing

 

[Willyeckerslike]

Well I am assuming it isn't until I prove it is at least I am doing that right!

Here is the instructions,

Warning this appliance must be earthed. It should be connected by a competent person , using fixed wiring via a double pole switched fused spur outlet (UK ONLY)

If you find only 2 wires in the mains lead (blue & brown) then neither must be connected to the earth terminal, blue to N (neutral) brown to L (live)

Does this mean it can run with just the 2 wires or not because I live in the UK?

Would this be a reasonable testing multimeter?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/philex-83000r-s-digital-multimeter/34612

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Doe the hood manual state whether it is class II or double insulated appliance or no requirements to earth?
Is the there a symbol like this on it.

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• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 25 Feb 2011
• 14

?

 

[17thman]

I have stripped back the sheath and connected it to the hood using a connection block and the hood works fine. It was fitted a few years back by an electrician when we had an extension built so I would presume it would be earthed

sorry if sounds a bit harsh, but you are assuming.

I think you will find you have told us that the instructions say that the appliance must be earthed.

Untitled

• 17thman
• 20 Mar 2012
• 1

But as has been said, you may prove continuity, but not the electrical safety requirements.

 

[Willyeckerslike]

I was presuming it was but to make sure I posted here so you lovely people could tell me for sure.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The MI do state that "The Green/Yellow wire must be connected to the terminal marked “E” or

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 9 Oct 2011
• 7

 

[Willyeckerslike]

I cannot find that symbol in the manual PrenticeBoyofDerry. I was just wondering why it said you must apply the earth then underneath it were instructions with no earth.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes I agree a little confusing and misleading.
At the end of the day if an earth terminal is present at the appliance, I would go worse case and connect the earth.
It has metallic casing, there is nothing indicating it is class II or double insulated.
So get the CPC/earth connected and checked.

 

[Willyeckerslike]

thanks PrenticeBoyofDerry I will get it checked out. Would I be able to do it with a multimeter and I will try to trace it back to the fuse box, need to get up in the loft and crawl about. If I need a multimeter is the one I posted earlier OK?

 

[17thman]

I have emailed their sales and technical department with the direct question. Is it Class I or Class 11, if you cjheck in later, i will post if the reply.