shower light operated from shower switch

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I an renovating a bathroom and installing IP 65 GU10 ceiling lights. I would like to have a light over the shower which is only on when the shower is- so relaxing in a bath does not involve a downlighter in the eyes.

But if I wire it on the shower circuit with its 45A breaker, presumably I have to use 10 mm cable to the light - which doesn't seem practicable!
How do people solve this problem?

Thanks
 
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With a 6amp and 45amp MCB, placed AFTER your pull cord, in the airing cupboard or similar.

I fitted a flow switch to my shower pipework, the shower fan starts up as soon as water flows, and the Ventaxia ambient response humidistat takes over once the room is steamy.
 
Surely another 45A mcb won't be necessary or desirable.

You will get posts about dedicated shower circuits.
 
I guess a further 45amp MCB is not required. Fit a flow switch, it's a completely seperate system then.
 
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if you want 1 light on only when showering and you use a flow switch. What happens when you turn the shower off, you will be in darkness.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

Given I already have the 10 mm stuff in place, the flow switch seems like a winner.
Had never heard of it! :oops:

thanks again
 
Could you not just install another pull-cord switch for the shower light from the lighting circuit?

Or are you set on something more 'automated'?
 
Could you not just install another pull-cord switch for the shower light from the lighting circuit?

Or are you set on something more 'automated'?

would prefer "automated" if possible.

Just hadn't expected it to be a problem!

:D
 
With the flow switch I showed, you would connect one lead of the flow switch to the switched side of your lighting and the other lead to the above the shower light fitting. If the lights aren't on it will never work. If the lights are on and you start the shower (get a flow) the above shower light will come on.

Simples!!
 
The flow switch you show has two single insulated leads? Not ideal. It also looks like the hole where the paddle goes into the pipe is only sealed by some glues on plastic. Not sure I would be happy with that sat at mains pressure all the time, although I guess it must have a pressure rating.

The one I used actually came out of a scrapped combi boiler, and had a foot of two core flex.

There is a suitable one here on Ebay (looks like an RS part number on it too):

$T2eC16RHJGIE9nnWqw17BRIgnfhlKg~~60_1.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Powe...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item27cff210fb
 
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Plan B - use something suitable for splitting 10mm², such as DIN rail terminal blocks with jumpers, or a service connector block, and have the shower circuit trigger a contactor for the lights.

Plan C - change the shower switch to a normal light switch, have it do the lights and a contactor for the shower.
 
The flow switch you show has two single insulated leads? Not ideal. It also looks like the hole where the paddle goes into the pipe is only sealed by some glues on plastic. Not sure I would be happy with that sat at mains pressure all the time, although I guess it must have a pressure rating.
I'll not argue with you but it was "surplus to requirements" so I got it for silly pennies. That suited me as I was, well, experimenting.
Is that a thermal switch ? If so please tell me the type and manufacturer.
 

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