Hi all,
Looking for a bit of advice please...
My Sparky is away for a while (unsure how long - family bereavement) but I need to get the kitchen walls plastered to keep things moving, so looking for confirmation of the best approach before the chases are filled, yet not doing anything that he'll need to undo / set-back the project - especially as I have only just gone firm on the appliances (and all important technical specs in the manuals!)
The appliances are:
1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10
2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X
The sparky still needs to fit the new CU, but has run a new 10mm2 2+E cable which will go from a 40A MCB to a recessed 47mm 2G backbox for a 45A MK Cooker Switch (yes, the one with an incorporated 13A plug socket). That part of the chase (to above the worktop) has since been hardwalled in, but I now need to plaster the short stretch below the Cooker Switch to the worktop level - and need to run cables to the hob and to the oven. My Sparky originally said that it'd be best to keep it in 10mm2 as per the supply radial, but having looked at the instruction manuals, it's clear that 10mm2 won't wire straight in to the terminal boxes - nor are they heat resistance flex...
The remainder of the 10mm2 also currently runs from the Cooker Switch backbox to another recessed 35mm 1G backbox behind (and just below) where the double oven will be fitted. This has about a 1.5m tail that might be needed to be cut and used to go from the Cooker Switch to the induction hob?
1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10:
Total power: 6.4-7.2kW
Cable type / section: H05V2V2-F 3x6mm2 / 3x2.5mm2
From the instruction manual:
Why the N1/N2 and L1/L2? European compatibility?
2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X
Total power: 4.8kW (main oven: 2.2kW / top oven: 2.2kW)
Fuse: min 25A
Cable type / section: H05W-FG 3x2.5mm2 or equivalent
Cable length: max 2m
From the instruction manual:
Questions
1. Obviously I don't want to invalidate the warranties by not using the manufacturer specified heat-resistant flex, but how do you safely drop from 10mm2 to the sizes mentioned? Through Cooker Connection Plates? Do these need fusing (ie FCU)?
2. Can both these appliances be safely connected to the single 45A Cooker Switch? What size 2+E to run from the Cooker Switch to the Connection Plates and/or directly to the appliances?
3. Not sure why, but having scoured this forum, I understand that the Cooker Switches with incorporated 13A plug socket can cause problems too?
I'm not going to do any more than get the cables to the right places with the right amount of tail, so your help is appreciated so I can move along with what I can in the meantime.
Many thanks in advance.
Looking for a bit of advice please...
My Sparky is away for a while (unsure how long - family bereavement) but I need to get the kitchen walls plastered to keep things moving, so looking for confirmation of the best approach before the chases are filled, yet not doing anything that he'll need to undo / set-back the project - especially as I have only just gone firm on the appliances (and all important technical specs in the manuals!)
The appliances are:
1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10
2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X
The sparky still needs to fit the new CU, but has run a new 10mm2 2+E cable which will go from a 40A MCB to a recessed 47mm 2G backbox for a 45A MK Cooker Switch (yes, the one with an incorporated 13A plug socket). That part of the chase (to above the worktop) has since been hardwalled in, but I now need to plaster the short stretch below the Cooker Switch to the worktop level - and need to run cables to the hob and to the oven. My Sparky originally said that it'd be best to keep it in 10mm2 as per the supply radial, but having looked at the instruction manuals, it's clear that 10mm2 won't wire straight in to the terminal boxes - nor are they heat resistance flex...
The remainder of the 10mm2 also currently runs from the Cooker Switch backbox to another recessed 35mm 1G backbox behind (and just below) where the double oven will be fitted. This has about a 1.5m tail that might be needed to be cut and used to go from the Cooker Switch to the induction hob?
1. Induction Hob - Logik LINDHOB10:
Total power: 6.4-7.2kW
Cable type / section: H05V2V2-F 3x6mm2 / 3x2.5mm2
From the instruction manual:
2. Double Oven - Beko DBDM223X
Total power: 4.8kW (main oven: 2.2kW / top oven: 2.2kW)
Fuse: min 25A
Cable type / section: H05W-FG 3x2.5mm2 or equivalent
Cable length: max 2m
From the instruction manual:
Questions
1. Obviously I don't want to invalidate the warranties by not using the manufacturer specified heat-resistant flex, but how do you safely drop from 10mm2 to the sizes mentioned? Through Cooker Connection Plates? Do these need fusing (ie FCU)?
2. Can both these appliances be safely connected to the single 45A Cooker Switch? What size 2+E to run from the Cooker Switch to the Connection Plates and/or directly to the appliances?
3. Not sure why, but having scoured this forum, I understand that the Cooker Switches with incorporated 13A plug socket can cause problems too?
I'm not going to do any more than get the cables to the right places with the right amount of tail, so your help is appreciated so I can move along with what I can in the meantime.
Many thanks in advance.
