Twin&Earth Sandwiched Between Hot Water Pipes

[Tozzy]

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• Tozzy
• 14 Apr 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Tozzy
• 14 Apr 2014
• 1

Hi there,

I'm just wondering if i should be concerned and if anyone has any ideas on how to ease the problem? It's a fairly tight gap between the cable so it would be tricky to place pipe insulation. Not only that, but I read somewhere that polystyrene shouldn't come into contact with PVC cables anyway

(Thermoplastic (pvc) sheathed cables including thermosetting insulated with thermoplastic sheath e.g. lsf, must be separated from expanded polystyrene materials to prevent take up of the cable plasticiser by the polystyrene as this will reduce the flexibility of the cables.")

Recabling is really not something I want to get involved in doing.
Is there an ideal fix that I haven't thought if? Don't really want to leave the cable like this for obvious reasons. At least one of those two pipes is a hot water pipe by the way.
Thanks.

P.S. Whoever did this needs bladdy shootin'!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The pipe insulation is not going to trouble the cable.
pipe insulation
The only other option is to splice the pipe remove cable from between them then join pipe back up, but if you have issues regarding confinements of space, then that could be more difficult then disconnecting cable.

 

[sparkwright]

What do you prefer; plumbing or electrical work?

 

[Tozzy]

What do you prefer; plumbing or electrical work?

Probably feel more confident doing electrical work than plumbing as we seem to be cursed by leaks!

Is there a way I could snip the cable at the pipe and rejoin it with something like an insulated flex connector? I know that's generally not good practice. If that really is a no no, then i suppose the only way would be to take up the floor boards, but I really don't want to have to do that.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are there any other joints/junctions in the cable within the void, as it could be possible to disconnect move from between pipes then reconnect access allowing, if you need to cut into the cable then there are a number of junctions/jointing kits but as the joint will be within the void the joint will require to by a method that is considered maintenance free.

 

[Tozzy]

That's an idea I will consider. Sounds similar to an idea that I've just come up with. I thought of snipping the cable at the nearest joist, then untangling the cable from the pipe, and simply reconnecting via 30A JB, but it's whether there will be enough cable to make the connections. But, I don't know why there wouldn't be as, after all, that's how spurs are made. It would be my first work task involving a junction box. Most work I've done up to now are smaller tasks. I'll know more when i see how much access I can make for myself. Access permitting, it should be fairly straight forward.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Don't forget the junction box should be maintenance free boxes, if the joint is going to be left in an inaccessible location.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html

 

[Tozzy]

Awesome you've been a great help. Decided to use a wagobox with wago connectors if I don't end up using an Ashley Hager J803. Thanks again.

 

[Johnmelad]

Awesome you've been a great help. Decided to use a wagobox with wago connectors if I don't end up using an Ashley Hager J803. Thanks again.

Not all WAGO boxes are MF.

 

[bernardgreen]

Obviously it is best to move the cables away from the pipes but doing that by adding junction boxes is only adding more points of potential faults.

How long are the pipes ?. Is it not possible to move the pipes slightly apart using a spacer between them to stop them pressing against the cable. ? This would force a slight bend into the pipes which shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Decided to use a wagobox with wago connectors if I don't end up using an Ashley Hager J803.

As above("Johnmelad"), Wago connectors although they state they are 17th edition compliant, this does not mean they are MF compliant, the standard you are looking for is BS5733-MF, this should be printed on the product.

 

[Tozzy]

Thanks for pointing that out about the wagoboxes. I'll keep that in mind for future reference. Beofre I buy a MF accessory whether wagobox or Ashley kind, I'll do what bernardgreen said and see if I can space the pipes apart a bit using a thin piece of timber cladding or similar. The pipes are long so I've got a good feeling it should work. Will be great if it does as I'll be able to continue laying carpet. Thanks for your help fellas

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Just be careful that you don't open and joints, compression or capillary or you are going to need the mop and bucket as it is central heating pipes you will have no way of isolation and until that part of the system is drained down water will continue you to flow and if it is feed and expansion system water will continue to flow unless the supply pipe is isolated.

 

[Tozzy]

Hi thanks i wasn't aware of this. Well, i just came back to edit my last post to say how i got on incase anyone has any similar problems. I've already done the work so i just hope everything is still ok. Not sure how long it would take before any signs of water leakage would show, but it's been over 24 hours now and no problems.

For anyone who has any similar problems with cables between pipe work: do what i have done and see if there's any play in the pipes, but be as careful as you can. It seems that long pipes do have some fair play in them, but you still have to be very gentle and insert the wooden wedgies SLOWLY. if you use a hammer, just a slight tap should do it. See this picture:

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• Tozzy
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Tozzy
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

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• Tozzy
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

You can also see that the two cables are no longer touching the pipe.
But, in all honesty, I would advise that if you run into the same problem I had, I would just leave well alone. Don't bother to move the cable. I have only done this because I did move (disturb) the cable, but it's been there for god knows how many years anyway and doesn't seem to be that worn so i've just created extra work for myself as well as inviting other implications. Good luck!

 

[bernardgreen]

I would have moved the pipes apart by hand and slid a flat piece of timber between them to keep them apart.

If that patch of clean copper was where the cable has been pressed against the pipe then the cable was under enough pressure to suffer damage over time.