Hi, in my shed office, im installing a warmup mat. My Q: in addition to the thermostat in the actual oshed office, how can I have an additional controlllable facility from the house eg hardwired slave thermo or remote control, so that I don’t have to walk to the shed to switch on please? Cheers.
Warmup Second slave thermostat possible?
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Before you go any further, what do you think the mat will achieve?
Just to warm the floor and to create some ambient temp after eg an hour (?)
How well insulated is the shed, particularly the floor?
What will be over the heat mat - a good insulator?
What is the output of the mat - have you tried a test with an equivalent power heater to see how well it warms up the space?
What will be over the heat mat - a good insulator?
What is the output of the mat - have you tried a test with an equivalent power heater to see how well it warms up the space?
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Electric underfloor controllers can be obtained with wireless remote controls.
You could also have a normal switch in the house to turn the thing on or off, with the controller in the shed.
However, electric underfloor heating in a house is next to useless.
Installing it in a shed will be a total bust.
If walking to this shed to switch on heating is a problem, how far away is the shed? Does it already have power?
You could also have a normal switch in the house to turn the thing on or off, with the controller in the shed.
However, electric underfloor heating in a house is next to useless.
Installing it in a shed will be a total bust.
If walking to this shed to switch on heating is a problem, how far away is the shed? Does it already have power?
You aren't going to change the ambient temperature much with an electric underfloor heating mat. Its designed to take the chill off floor tiles, not provide space heating.
Think about it. Warmup mat is around 150 watts/M². That's a couple of old-type light bulbs per square metre.
How many light bulbs would you use to heat your shed? A decent fan heater will be 2000watts.
And, as BAS has pointed out, you floor had better be very well insulated, or the only warm things will be the worms in the ground under the shed.
Think about it. Warmup mat is around 150 watts/M². That's a couple of old-type light bulbs per square metre.
How many light bulbs would you use to heat your shed? A decent fan heater will be 2000watts.
And, as BAS has pointed out, you floor had better be very well insulated, or the only warm things will be the worms in the ground under the shed.
All replies much appreciated. Thank you.
To call it an outhouse is more accurate: it's built to a house spec 8m x 5m : insultated cavity walls, insultated ceiling, the floor has Kingspan/Celotex (I think 50mm or more) insulation in the screed and I now propose to instal Warmup insulated foil blanket and then the warmup matting on top of it. then the flooring. It has 2 wall mounted electric heaters. The garden is 150 foot long, and combining my laziness with the recent rain/cold, it would be neat to flick on the ufh from the main house eg 30 minutes before usage. Hence, my Q: what's the best way to have dual control both within the outhouse and from the main house please? Thank you.
Wireless, if it will reach, as I'm assuming it is now too late to install any wired connections between office and house.
But with a build spec like that I'm surprised that you need UFH, particularly as it's not like a bathroom/WC/kitchen where you're going to be padding in there with bare feet.
But with a build spec like that I'm surprised that you need UFH, particularly as it's not like a bathroom/WC/kitchen where you're going to be padding in there with bare feet.
I have to agree with the comments about how poor under floor heating is. Cosy feet but cold ankles.
Remote control of heating requires some caution.
Turning on a heater without being able to check there is no inflammable material covering the heater when turned on remotely can be a fire hazard.
How does the electric reach the outhouse ? If it is SWA in a duct then is there space to pull in a suitable cable for the control circuit ( ELV )
Remote control of heating requires some caution.
Turning on a heater without being able to check there is no inflammable material covering the heater when turned on remotely can be a fire hazard.
How does the electric reach the outhouse ? If it is SWA in a duct then is there space to pull in a suitable cable for the control circuit ( ELV )
Not with UFH.
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There must be 100's of remote control devices which could do the job. But there are two major considerations.
1) Distance and items between sender and receiver.
2) Current which will be switched.
I am sure many of us find there are locations in the house where the wireless on the laptop will not work. Likely some bricks in the way. I tried setting up wireless in one premises only to find insulating plaster board had been used which had resulted in every room being a Faraday cage. So wireless was just not possible.
The problem is of course spending out cash to find it will not work. The next problem is how connected? With a plug and socket the so called energy saving sockets for TV, video etc. may have a rating high enough but if you want permanent wired then not an option.
The other is EMC or interference from other sources. As a radio ham I have seen many items from car alarm/door locks to security lamps which are triggered by my radio. Clearly you would not want to find the heating had been on for days without you being in the building.
OK timers to switch off after a set time if not reset can get around the problem but very quickly you reach a point where wired would be better.
.
Although for mains power we need to protect cables very carefully for control circuits the requirement is not so high. I have a bird box with camera and microphone where the cable to house is just laid on the ground.
The control already used with the heating mat has to be considered there may be a very simple safe way. However as with all DIY there are some methods which could be dangerous and many DIY people never do a risk assessment.
So in conclusion there are just too many variables for anyone on here to give any real solutions. But pictures may help.
1) Distance and items between sender and receiver.
2) Current which will be switched.
I am sure many of us find there are locations in the house where the wireless on the laptop will not work. Likely some bricks in the way. I tried setting up wireless in one premises only to find insulating plaster board had been used which had resulted in every room being a Faraday cage. So wireless was just not possible.
The problem is of course spending out cash to find it will not work. The next problem is how connected? With a plug and socket the so called energy saving sockets for TV, video etc. may have a rating high enough but if you want permanent wired then not an option.
The other is EMC or interference from other sources. As a radio ham I have seen many items from car alarm/door locks to security lamps which are triggered by my radio. Clearly you would not want to find the heating had been on for days without you being in the building.
OK timers to switch off after a set time if not reset can get around the problem but very quickly you reach a point where wired would be better.
.
Although for mains power we need to protect cables very carefully for control circuits the requirement is not so high. I have a bird box with camera and microphone where the cable to house is just laid on the ground.
The control already used with the heating mat has to be considered there may be a very simple safe way. However as with all DIY there are some methods which could be dangerous and many DIY people never do a risk assessment.
So in conclusion there are just too many variables for anyone on here to give any real solutions. But pictures may help.
Update: I spoke to Warmup this am they said i can run a bell-wire extension from outhouse to shed for the thermostat to be accessible fomr the main house. for the second part of my requirement which is to have a control within the outhouse, my question now to you is this please: Can I have a wireless control in the outhouse or eg a junction box/splitter? If wireless control is poss, which ones are most reliable please?
Thank you.
Thank you.
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