solid wood installation

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Hi all

what is the best way to install real wood flooring (oak) on to tounge and groove floor boards
if possible i would for ease float it like laminate but not sure if this is suitable method


will be puting down an underlay as well

thanks
 
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I wouldn't recommend floating solid floorboards, they should be nailed down.

How much can you add in thickness?

You could nail to the softwood boards, but it is not ideal.
 
It really depends on the size (length) of the Oak boards if you can install this type of flooring using the floating method.
If random length - as many "cheap offers" are - with too many short lengths you'll get too many joints, all acting like hinges.

If this is not the case, use a foam underlayment - one without a DPM!

If this is the case, secret nail the boards with a Portonailer and don't use an underlayment
 
It really depends on the size (length) of the Oak boards if you can install this type of flooring using the floating method.
If random length - as many "cheap offers" are - with too many short lengths you'll get too many joints, all acting like hinges.

If this is not the case, use a foam underlayment - one without a DPM!

If this is the case, secret nail the boards with a Portonailer and don't use an underlayment

what do you mean by underlayment?
the floor is not cheap and varies in lenghts was going to glue first few rows and use clips then float the rest and finnish with a few rows of glue and clips again, would this work
 
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I wouldn't recommend floating solid floorboards, they should be nailed down.

How much can you add in thickness?

You could nail to the softwood boards, but it is not ideal.

not sure what i can add as i dont know how much i can chop of the doors, flooring is 18 mm plus underlay

why cant i nail to softwood boards?
 
It really depends on the size (length) of the Oak boards if you can install this type of flooring using the floating method.
If random length - as many "cheap offers" are - with too many short lengths you'll get too many joints, all acting like hinges.

If this is not the case, use a foam underlayment - one without a DPM!

If this is the case, secret nail the boards with a Portonailer and don't use an underlayment

what do you mean by underlayment?
the floor is not cheap and varies in lenghts was going to glue first few rows and use clips then float the rest and finnish with a few rows of glue and clips again, would this work
Underlayment to be used when installing floating on exiting floorboards or any sheet materials (such as chipboard of plywood) should not contain a DPM, just a sound insulation layer. Some underlayments come with a DPM attached/combined to it and can cause condensation when used on subfloors/underfloors they are not suitable for.

How long is the shortest length of your boards and how many of these shortest boards are there?

Not sure what you mean by all the things you want to do: glue (fully bonding?), clip and then float????
 
dont know yet how many or long shortest boards are

the boards have a rebate on under side and can be used with a clip that is thin and metal and sits on floor with two raised lugs that will slot in to rebate in order to create wider sections to i assume reduce "hinging"


http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/158053
 
No they won't. Never seen clips that do this, clips are horrible and have no use at all (except for the seller)
 
On concrete floors: fully bonding with flexible adhesive such as Basicoll PU-650SE
On existing floorboards: secret nailing with a Portonailer.
 

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