Drylining a plastered wall

[MadAlicesDad]

I've got a bedroom that needs drylining. The house is Victorian with solid stone external walls. The plaster/render is in a poor condition with a mould problem where there had been a built in wardrobe.
In the past when doing other rooms in the house, I've knocked off all the plaster, put up battens, added some kingspan and a vapour barrier and boarded over the top.
The internal brick walls will need knocking off because I'm going to dot and dab them, but is it necessary to knock off the existing plaster from the stone walls or is it ok to batten over the top of it?
As much as I would like to knock it all off to satisfy my OCD, is it worth the extra time, effort and mess?

TIA
Mike

 

[Pigeon85]

Baton over the top if you like. Only problem with it is you will lose a little space. Oh and make sure it's sound enough to fix to.

 

[Pigeon85]

Forgot to add, wash off the mould with bleach just to stop it spreading.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

Just what I was hoping! The extra thickness of the wall won't be a problem.

I plan on fixing the battens into the wall, not the existing plaster. Finding a stone to screw into may be the big problem; it was quite tricky to find a suitable stone when the walls were bare!

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Pigeon85]

The only other thing you would have to think about is if the board comes out past any window sill.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

No problem there, the room will have no original bits left when I start rebuilding it!
Cheers,
Mike

 

[1john]

If you can afford the space you can build a stud wall in front out of CLS.

Tip for battening, once all your battens are fixed and packed out true and plumb you can put expanding foam behind to really firm them up.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

One of the walls has a chimney breast standing about 100mm proud of the wall. I thought of making either side of that a stud wall as you suggest, but that would mean the wardrobe would have to be 100mm deeper to take clothes on hangers. I think that would be too much lost space.

Regarding the foam tip, I've used that before - rock solid and recommended

Cheers,
Mike

 

[1john]

I would also recommend 9mm OSB over battens before board, makes the wall really strong, on the last refurbs i have done this is what i Did on every stud and battened wall, glues and screwed OSB over 400mm centered studs / battens and plasterboard over top, very strong and the OSB is only about £8 a sheet from selco. I double up the OSB where curtain poles would go and radiators.

 

[Skimmers]

Use a metal studding system its cheaper then wood thinner lighter easy to cut with snips half the time and a lot lot better
Wickes sell all the gear you'll need for the job from the studs channels boards screws dry lining boxes jointing compound ect one stop shop for the lot sorted

 

[MadAlicesDad]

Do you mean the stuff used to make partition walls, like this?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/resources/images/gil/90.pdf

Mike

 

[1john]

He does, I'm curious as to why he states it's better though, personally I hate the stuff, it's cheap and nasty and walls sound terrible if you bump them. It's not as strong either, but each to their own.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

You pre-empted my next question!

Mike

 

[MadAlicesDad]

I couldn't cope with the thought of the old plaster sat behind the new wall, so knocked it all off. As a bonus I can now see where the stones are for fixing the battens.
On the internal brick walls I was going to use drywall adhesive to fix the plasterboard, but have seen foam adhesive advertised. Is this any good?
Mike

 

[1john]

Id use the board addy myself, I have done a fair bit in my own house with the foam and it would push the board away from the wall if the timing wasnt spot on. I regret using it now.