Part boarded wall

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I've got a wall in my kitchen which I'm boarding over (timber studwork & board, not dot'n'dab) which I'm then going to have skimmed.

The thing is I'm not taking it all the way to the floor, the reason being that I want to create a void behind the base units for pipes, cables, drier ducting etc, so I'm only taking it down to just below worktop height.

My question is should I do anything to the bottom edge of the plasterboard, e.g. beading, or will it be OK just left? Once everything is installed it won't be getting knocked.
 
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IMHO No need if it is being hidden, but for neatness you could fix it so the factory edge is exposed, rather than a cut edge.

Other advice on whether it needs sealing up in a kitchen or around a drier anyone??
 
Issues you have raised concerns over are only cosmetic. It may be an idea to run noggins through where you intend to end the board to provide additional support. Aside from that, placing fillets of ply behind the board or noggins where you'll be wanting fixings for units is a good idea, or better still, if you have the whole wall stripped back you can install OSB over first with plasterboard over, this will guarantee a fixing and also provide a stronger wall.
 
1) Yes - I have 75x45 running along the entire bottom edge (with small gaps where pipes and conduit run up).

2) The gaps between the timber studs are filled with sheets of ply and some seriously dense 25mm chipboard - I'll be able to use 60mm screws for fixing things.


PS - good tip from Micilin.
 
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IMHO No need if it is being hidden, but for neatness you could fix it so the factory edge is exposed, rather than a cut edge.

Other advice on whether it needs sealing up in a kitchen or around a drier anyone??

I would seal it if it's in the kitchen, water, drinks are always spilt, even around dryers so would not harm to seal the edge.
 
I would seal it if it's in the kitchen, water, drinks are always spilt, even around dryers so would not harm to seal the edge.

What about a moisture resistant board as there may be condensation around the drier. I'd imagine a worktop or counter will be over all this, and sealed, but perhaps not?
 
Spillage unlikely to be a problem, as where there's a worktop there'll be a splashback sealed down onto it, and there will be one over the drier. Don't think that driers have the same issues as WM and DW for moisture?

Part of the run will have a free-standing cooker in front of it though.

Best way to seal the edges?

P'raps I'll use edge beading after all - it's no biggie.
 
I would seal it if it's in the kitchen, water, drinks are always spilt, even around dryers so would not harm to seal the edge.

What about a moisture resistant board as there may be condensation around the drier. I'd imagine a worktop or counter will be over all this, and sealed, but perhaps not?

Can't hurt and would be a good idea, personally I would go for moisture boards if it was my home.
 
Another Q, re beads:

It's just one wall being done, so where the new boards meet the existing end walls at right angles, should I put beads in the internal angles?

The end walls are to be skimmed too, as they're in a bit of a state.

Or will joint tape be enough?

EDIT - forget the above - just realised I don't have to worry about it - the plaster can decide at the time what he wants to put on.

I'll need to do the edge beading myself, as that, I guess, wraps around the edge of the boards as they get fixed, so, just the one Q left:


Also, pros/cons of metal vs plastic beading?
 
You only bead external corners, internal corners should have tape.

I have never used plastic bead for skimming as I dont fancy it being rigid enough when your pressing on it or that it would take a lot of fixings to get it solid also I dont think it would be great at taking a knock as much as metal would.
 
Let the plasterer fix the beads.

I also prefer metal, but use plastic arch beads for curves.

No need for beads in the internal angles.
 

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