quick question

[Robbox]

Have an old house, we put a new window in and now need to make good.
From the photos I have uploaded here, I hope to show the situation.
I have created a ledge for a sheet of plasterboard to rest and was just going to fix it up as shown in the last pic. Is that OK for the plasterer like that or do I need to feather the top back edge so it lies more flush with original ceiling?
I was also going to squirt a load of foam around the frame and stone work to fill all the gaps up.

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• Robbox
• 17 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
• 17 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
• 17 Jan 2015
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[ched999uk]

I am new to plastering but I was always under the impression that plasterboard needed to be firmly fixed on all sides. Don't know if it's photos but why do you want the angle?

Looking at it, would it not be better to remove the window architrave before the plasterer does the making good. That way you will have the architrave covering up the join between plaster and wood of the window frame. I believe a joint between plaster and wood will usually crack as they both have different expansion rates. So the architrave will go over the joint and cover any cracks that may appear.

I would say best bet would be to speak to your plasterer and maybe send him first and last image and see what he suggests.

If he arrives and it's wrong then he has more work/time than he quoted you for so best to ask him.

Let us know what the outcome is as it may help people in future.

 

[Robbox]

Hi and thanks for your reply.
This is a tricky one to make good sympathetically. The old window was a sliding sash and the new one is a casement. The new one is about half the depth of the old one. So before the PB sat behind the architrave and went vertical to meet the old sloping ceiling.
But with the new window, to make the PB run behind the architrave and vertical means that it no longer meets the ceiling.
The ceiling PB runs down to a length of old timber that supports the roof timbers.
So I thought, why not slope the new piece of PB to cover the timber and meet the ceiling.
I hadn't thought about the different expansions etc.....(but this is an old house and fine cracks appear all over the place for now apparent reason).
I suppose I could build out the architrave to make something like the depth of the old sash, but I felt that would look awkward.
I could skip the architrave all together, but casement window is fixed between two timbers each side to accommodate the loss of width left by the old sash. So gaps between the window frame and side pieces has to be hidden....hence the architrave!

 

[Robbox]

Having a second thought here, maybe it would be simpler to somehow add a small width of PB to make the ceiling meet the wall, then the board can go behind the architrave vertically to meet the ceiling.
Not sure how I would make that fillet of board stay there and also meet the ceiling board cleanly....it would have to screwed to a piece of timber that had the correct angle.

 

[noseall]

The plasterboard header on the angle looks naff. Take it down or you will regret it.

Do you plan on fitting anything to the window head, i.e. blinds curtain etc?

I would be thinking timber batten (photograph it), fix some insulation in place then fix the board to the insulation.

At least if you do make a timber sandwich you will have something to fix to. The insulation is only a suggestion (if you have the tolerance) as it may not be a cold bridge risk. Can't tell from the photos.

 

[Robbox]

Some more photos for a better visual explanation....
The old piece of timber at the top you can see, is not in good condition, so I wanted to strengthen and give a better purchase for fixing the board. I had some old door frame around and used that, but probably a trip to the yard for something better is called for.
There are curtains fixed to a pole on the wall either side of the reveal.
I wanted to fix some insulation and have a role of the silvered thin stuff. But was also going to foam into the wall where there are gaps and holes. Hopefully that would eliminate cold air entering through the stone work.
In the last picture, I show the top architrave taken off to reveal the extra timber used to 'extend' the window frame up.
The 'gap' behind the top architrave is 20mm, is that enough for board and some thin insulation, if I go that route?
It would mean extending the ceiling down to meet the stone lintel. Not sure how I'd go about that in a neat way. Maybe a length of timber cut with at an angle on the face to take a length of PB to marry up to the ceiling PB.

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• Robbox
• 18 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
• 18 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
• 18 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
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• Robbox
• 18 Jan 2015
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• Robbox
• 18 Jan 2015
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