Shower Room Drylining help

stevevalo · Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:22 pm

I’ve just gutted my downstairs shower room, its ~1200 x ~3500 with the shower at one end.

The reason for gutting was that there were 2 layers of tiles on the plasterboard. I also stripped out the ceiling as well.

I was planning on lining the shower end, in cement board or aqua panel or hardybacker.

Does anyone have any advise on this, I am leaning toward Hardy backer as its 1200x800x12 so I would need 3 to go from floor to ceiling (2400mm) therefore no cutting required. (Aqua panel is 900mm so would need cutting).

Can I screw straight onto the timber frame, would I need to dwang/noggin where the horizontal joints of the board are?

I was also planning on insulation all the walls (for heat and noise), I have 100mm deep timber frame, should I also put a vapour barrier in or do I just do this on the external frame?

Any advice much appreciated.

lasors · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 10:58 pm

Why not 8x4 moisture resistant plasterboard? No horizontal joints required, screw them on floor to ceiling. You could then go belt and braces and use a tanking kit around the wet area. Mapei waterproofing kit is on sale just now at Screwfix at £40, comes with tape and jointing compound. Tile straight on top.

Jimmy3 · Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 6:17 pm

I'm am doing a similar project at the moment, a downstairs walk in shower/wet room.
I have just installed an Aquadry wetroom shower tray sunk into a concrete floor so it is the same level as the floor. The shower end has two plastered walls and one glass screen. I have been advised to just tile the two walls with waterproof adhesive and grout however i'm not sure if this will be sufficient to keep all moisture out. It's on a concrete floor so no wood to worry about rotting but obviously i don't want any damp penetrating behind the wall tiles or under the shower tray.
Can anyone recommend this product as it's a lot cheaper than the proper tile boards which seem to be around 10mm thick as well which wont be as neat:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-shower-waterproofing-kit-5kg/78484

Richard C · Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:11 pm

stevevalo wrote:

I was planning on lining the shower end, in cement board or aqua panel or hardybacker. Does anyone have any advise on this, I am leaning toward Hardy backer as its 1200x800x12 so I would need 3 to go from floor to ceiling (2400mm) therefore no cutting required. (Aqua panel is 900mm so would need cutting).

Good; don’t use plasterboard, even moisture resistant unless you tank it & even that is not much help if you have concealed pipes or shower valve. I use Aquapanel (it’s cheaper) & no need to tank unless you have a mega, multi jet power shower or a wet room. Plan your board layout to avoid board joints coinciding with tile grout lines; tape the joints & fill with tile adhesive just before tiling. I'ts also important to decide what size & type of tiles your having before you go any further.

stevevalo wrote:

Can I screw straight onto the timber frame, would I need to dwang/noggin where the horizontal joints of the board are?

Screw fixings (every 150mm max) into timber are fine, I only ever use plasterboard fixings; no need to provide additional horizontal support for board joints unless the studs are more than 400mm apart.

stevevalo wrote:

I was also planning on insulation all the walls (for heat and noise), I have 100mm deep timber frame, should I also put a vapour barrier in or do I just do this on the external frame?

You don’t say where the walls are but if this is a new room with a W/C, sound insulation is a B Regs requirement to specified standard. It’s always a good idea to insulate stud walls anyway (I use 100mm cavity batts) but if you’ve a power pump, it won’t make an awful lot of difference.

You don’t need a vapor barrier but not sure what do you mean by “external frame”?

When tiling or re-tiling, there are many things that can catch you out. With walls, you need to consider tile weights, prep & materials & suspended timber floors need special consideration. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap. Have a read & post “Tiling Forum” for further advice.
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Jimmy3 you’ve not been given good advice, particularly for a wet room. Start your own thread in “Tiling Forum” & I will tell you why!

stevevalo · Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:43 pm

Thanks for the replies and good advice.

The framing is for 1200 plasterboard so studs are at 600 centres. So would need horizontal support at the joints?

huddsspread · Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 8:40 am

Yes. What you need to think of, if you forget measurements, that you need some support so the plasterboard cannot move or bend or flex. Depends on how thick too. If you use 3/8 board, it can flex in the smallest of gaps, where as half inch does not. If you wanted you could do them at 300,600,900,1200. or other scenarios with different boards 4,8,12,16,20,24.

Different people use different methods. 300 centres, or 400 centres.

Richard C · Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:31 am

Stick some intermediate noggins in to support the edges.

When boarding any stud/wall, only ever use 12.5mm & Moisture Resistant for bath/shower rooms. For tile backer boards, again, use 12.5mm/12mm where possible but never go less then 10mm.

What size/type tiles are you having?

stevevalo · Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:05 pm

I'll be using 12.5 MR board outside of the shower enclosure and ceiling.

No idea what the tile size is yet, getting a sample tomorrow so I'll know then.

Thanks for the good advice!

plenty other stuff to be getting on with.

stevevalo · Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 4:56 pm

Ok the tile size is 2' x 1' (or 61cm 30.5cm).

So apart from making sure the edge of the tiles are not running with the edge of the hardybacker is there anything else I should be watching for?