upvc render beading nightmare

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Hello,
I bought plastic beading recently and have now found out (the hard way) that you cant hold it in place the same as s/steel. The first bit I did was ruined when i knocked the beading and it came away. apparently you need adhesive mortar but cant find a supplier. Can anyone advise anything, and can masonry nails do the job. Many thanks.
 
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Bear with me, but

are you buttering up the arris fully befoire putting the bead on, or just trying to force the render through the bead?

Are you getting them stuck before the render starts to dry, or maybe playing around with them , fiddling a bit too much?

What are you going on to - is it high suction liike Durox/thermalite etc?

How soon after fixing are they being knocked off and when they are, is any render sticking to the background.

Plasitc beads should not give you any problems bieng stuck with sand and cement/monocouche ,so we will try to find a reason.
 
Hello, I held them in place with nails and dabbed over the top. I take it your saying I should have smeared some render on then pushed the beads on?
Its bricks mostly and medium density blocks all of which you can pull off the nxt day.
I fixed them one day rendered the next no apparent probs and the day later after a slight knock the beads moved and a split appeared. I looked online today at a company selling upvc beads and they say you should have a continous line of adhesive mortar.
Ive been using a four to one mix. Cheers
 
Sorted.

Put the render on first and push the beads into it, and tap in with a straight edge while checking for plumb or sighting with a frame etc. You can still use a nail or two to hold them in place, epsecially on heads.

It pays to check the blockwork first to see where you need heavier/tighter dabs so that you keep your moving of the bead to a minimum, as the render dries you ruin th ebond if you are fiddling with the bead too much.

You can use a richer mix for the beads but never use anything that is internal plaster eg bonding or board adhesive.

May be reading it wrong but are you saying all of the render can be pulled off next day - what do you mean ?
 
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The rest of the render stayed on, I had to knock it off myself of course and will have to do it again due to the edges failing. Which was a choker as you can imagine especially as it was looking not bad with just a couple of small misses near the soffit. I didnt use pva between coats this time which I have always done before as i was told you dont need to.

Anyway its good if you're saying i can use ordinary muck to stick the beads. Not sure how long to wait before I should get on with the render, is it best to wait 2 days or 2 hrs??

Thanks by the way.
 
Leave for a day so you don't knock them off while working.

If they are pinned, or you are careful you may get on it same day, but not worth the heart ache if you knock one while tidying up..........
 
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sticks the bead better then muck and if you add a hand full of cement to it it sets faster too
 
sticks the bead better then muck and if you add a hand full of cement to it it sets faster too

If you leave board adhesive in water it dissolves, same as bonding, finish etc

Sorry, but I still don't know why you would prefer this ather than render to stick your beads outside?
 
I wouldn't recommend anyone do as Moodyspread suggests.
NEVER use internal plaster dabs etc, to fix any render beads outside.
 
Maybe the assumption is that pvc bead only gets used outside, but the op as far as I can see hasn't said he's working outside. Although in the 5th message he does mention 'soffit'. Perhaps that's the clue.
 
Maybe the assumption is that pvc bead only gets used outside, but the op as far as I can see hasn't said he's working outside. Although in the 5th message he does mention 'soffit'. Perhaps that's the clue.

Good point -I assumed outside for these beads - but he does mention render too !

Regardless of in sideor outside, or what you use to stick them -always put the bead onto dabs, not the other way around as this seems to be the OP's solution
 

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