Hi, I am very inexperienced with central heating but have been having problems that get worse. NOW i have a boiler that works, but does not seem to heat the water or the radiators. The boiler lights up starts heating but then makes "kettling" sounds and turns off. I thought radiator pipes were blocked, put in sludge remover, left for several days then drained off each radiator and the drain above the boiler. Muck came out then clean water on each when it had run clean for a while I stopped. I was also told it could be the pump, I checked but it seems to be running vibrates when system on, the by pass valve may not be working, not sure on that. The pipes from the boiler up to the hot water tank get hot, as does the pump and pipes near it but still "a non working system". I was then told to isolate the pump and check if the ??inverter was working, no idea what this is, had a go at isolating pump, could not stop water coming out - now not confident that isolating valves are working/were turned the right way. Any helpful suggestions welcome - I can criticise and ridicule myself - lots!! HELP.....
Boiler works, no hot water or heating??? open vented system
- Thread starter Plumbawful
- Start date
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It sound like a lack of circulation. Is the pipe hot up to the pump, but cooler after the pump? If so it's definitely a circulation problem.
The pump may be running, but it's not sending the water round the system? The impeller on the pump may have sheared off.
Which make/model pump do you have?
Is there a separate pipe from boiler to HW cylinder, which does not go via the pump? If so you have a "pumped heating, gravity hot water system". This is an old fashioned way of doing things which is no longer permitted on new installations. It might be worth thinking about changing it to a fully pumped system; it will have to be done when the boiler is replaced.
Leaving sludge remover in for a few days is not enough, unless the instructions specify a time limit. A couple of weeks, or even a month is better.
Don't forget to add inhibitor when you finally refill the system.
The pump may be running, but it's not sending the water round the system? The impeller on the pump may have sheared off.
Which make/model pump do you have?
Is there a separate pipe from boiler to HW cylinder, which does not go via the pump? If so you have a "pumped heating, gravity hot water system". This is an old fashioned way of doing things which is no longer permitted on new installations. It might be worth thinking about changing it to a fully pumped system; it will have to be done when the boiler is replaced.
Leaving sludge remover in for a few days is not enough, unless the instructions specify a time limit. A couple of weeks, or even a month is better.
Don't forget to add inhibitor when you finally refill the system.
Hi
Thanks for the response,
The pipe to the pump is hot and it is hot after.
Impeller was the word I could not remember, what is that?
The pump is an Altech CPS 130-6 and was new on 04/08
I would not stake my life on where pipes come and go from without taking up the floorboards. I have attached a picture (i think) of the pipework in the airing cupboard.
There is a pipe coming into the bottom of the pump that is hot, the pipe in the foreground where the front of the by pass valve has been taken off is hot.
I have just unscrewed the top of the auto vent to check it and surprise, a lot of air came out, more pipes got warmer and the hot water is now luke warm at best.
Gosh, I wish I knew more...........................!
Hope you can enlighten a little.
Thanks for the response,
The pipe to the pump is hot and it is hot after.
Impeller was the word I could not remember, what is that?
The pump is an Altech CPS 130-6 and was new on 04/08
I would not stake my life on where pipes come and go from without taking up the floorboards. I have attached a picture (i think) of the pipework in the airing cupboard.
There is a pipe coming into the bottom of the pump that is hot, the pipe in the foreground where the front of the by pass valve has been taken off is hot.
I have just unscrewed the top of the auto vent to check it and surprise, a lot of air came out, more pipes got warmer and the hot water is now luke warm at best.
Gosh, I wish I knew more...........................!
Hope you can enlighten a little.
Where has the Silver Box (Actuator) gone from you three port valve??
the Brass fitting with three pipes attached above the pump???
the Brass fitting with three pipes attached above the pump???
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The silver box is still attached to the electrics, a plumber I had recommended, told me he thought it was not working properly and took it off before he went off to finish another job. He has still not finished the other job yet.
It is actually just out of shot down bottom left.
Saturday 1st June - I have tried to take the front off the pump today and a biblical flood ensued!
I turned valves above and below clockwise as far as I could, undid two allen bolts, had two big towels to soak water up, plus plastic bowls in case, water came out filled plastic bowl, soaked towels, through floor into hall! I assume this means that the valves are not working?? Do I need to freeze above and below to check pump? Is ther any other solution??
It is actually just out of shot down bottom left.
Saturday 1st June - I have tried to take the front off the pump today and a biblical flood ensued!
I turned valves above and below clockwise as far as I could, undid two allen bolts, had two big towels to soak water up, plus plastic bowls in case, water came out filled plastic bowl, soaked towels, through floor into hall! I assume this means that the valves are not working?? Do I need to freeze above and below to check pump? Is ther any other solution??
get a heating engineer to test and re-connect the actuator or replace it if it is faulty, you may be able to just replace the synchron motor if that is all that is at fault, get rid of your plumber that removed the head and dissappeared
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