Concealed shower flexible pipe choice

[fredyflame]

Guys your expert advice please
I am fitting a concealed shower in a new stud wall. I had a brain wave of using a washing machine flexible hose for the connection up to the main shower head. It is the right length and has 2 90degree bends on connections
I could get a long braided flexi but no bends in that.
I am trying to keep connections and joints to a minimum
Your thoughts please

 

[Burnerman]

Expect the water volume to be reduced if you do - the internal diameter of these pipes is rather small!
John

 

[stardanny]

Use copper pipe and solder joints.

Hose pipe are unsuitable for inaccessible area, what happen if the hose split and you can't reach it without breaking tiles.

Hose pipe on concealed shower is a bodge job.

Daniel.

 

[fredyflame]

Ok
Yes I get the split thing good point.
What about braided flex then is that better?

I wholeheartedly agree copper and solder joints are best
But I could do with some movement available when installing

 

[Dean744PiN5]

my expert advice is, do it properly..just because something can be used doesn't mean it should. I wouldn't dream of using flexi hose's in that situation ever.

 

[fredyflame]

Dean could you elaborate as to why you would not use flexi pipes in this situation
I have already installed one using a short flexi on all 4 connections
It's a rain shower and works great

With regard to the internal diameter, the holes in the castings and cartridge are all small so flow is restricted to those anyway, surely as long as there is decent pressure it should be ok

Again, as a diy'er happy to be corrected

 

[jeff the gasman]

Use plastic push fit it's ideal for diy and very reliable.

 

[fredyflame]

Use plastic push fit it's ideal for diy and very reliable.

Sorry I don't like these, a solder joint every time where possible for me

 

[ALCPlumbing]

If it's a new installation of a concealed shower valve then you should have enough movement in pipes to do it properly.
If, however, you are replacing an existing faulty unit then as you will have only exposed a small amount of the pipework, you won't have any movement on the pipes. In this case I have always found slip couplings (end feed) to be the answer as you don't need any movement on the pipes. If unable to get slip coupling you can just buy a normal coupling, making sure they are the type that only has a raised internal dot as opposed to a lip all around the centre of the fitting as the dot can be easily filed down to create a slip coupling. I'm not sure what brand of coupling only have the dot but I'm someone else will.
Sorry if that didn't make much sense. I'm sure others will know what I mean and may explain better if need be.

 

[fredyflame]

If it's a new installation of a concealed shower valve then you should have enough movement in pipes to do it properly.
If, however, you are replacing an existing faulty unit then as you will have only exposed a small amount of the pipework, you won't have any movement on the pipes. In this case I have always found slip couplings (end feed) to be the answer as you don't need any movement on the pipes. If unable to get slip coupling you can just buy a normal coupling, making sure they are the type that only has a raised internal dot as opposed to a lip all around the centre of the fitting as the dot can be easily filed down to create a slip coupling. I'm not sure what brand of coupling only have the dot but I'm someone else will.
Sorry if that didn't make much sense. I'm sure others will know what I mean and may explain better if need be.

Thanks
I use end feed every time, not sure what the dot fitting is " up north" we call fittings with a solder ring inside 'Yorkshire fittings' I have never heard the term slip fitting

 

[fredyflame]

If it's a new installation of a concealed shower valve then you should have enough movement in pipes to do it properly.
If, however, you are replacing an existing faulty unit then as you will have only exposed a small amount of the pipework, you won't have any movement on the pipes. In this case I have always found slip couplings (end feed) to be the answer as you don't need any movement on the pipes. If unable to get slip coupling you can just buy a normal coupling, making sure they are the type that only has a raised internal dot as opposed to a lip all around the centre of the fitting as the dot can be easily filed down to create a slip coupling. I'm not sure what brand of coupling only have the dot but I'm someone else will.
Sorry if that didn't make much sense. I'm sure others will know what I mean and may explain better if need be.

Sorry think I miss understood. I now think you mean a fitting without a stop in the middle so it can be slipped fully over one pipe and then back up to join the next . Is this correct?

 

[ALCPlumbing]

Yeah that's correct. Without the raised bit on the inside if the fitting it can be slid all the way into a pipe. This allows you to then put pipe in that meets it without moving the existing pipe. Then slide the fitting evenly over the two pipes and solder. Soldered pipes are always best in walls, etc.

 

[fredyflame]

Ok
I'm convinced
All copper then
Thanks for everyone's input