The shower has had this problem twice now. First time I replaced the heating canister and it seemed to fix the problem as it was an element confirmed by the creda engineer who came to examine the shower but couldnt fit the item. Same problem has occurred now 2 months later. Surely the canister couldnt have failed again. The basic issue is the heat is no longer as strong as it was. I have also noticed the only the lower power led is on and the high led. The Mid temperature led is not on suggesting that either a microswitch is not working or the element in the heater has gone again? Not being a shower expert i was hoping for some advice on this before i get the multimeter out and test the microswitch and heater elements as the Creda engineer seemed to be at a loss as well. The same problem occurred with a Creda 950DL so perhaps it is a manufacturer fault.
Creda 850DL Shower loss of heat - Mid Temp Led has gone out
- Thread starter omendata
- Start date
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I would say you have a poss fault on a m/switch.
Check both elements are getting power on high setting.
Check both elements are getting power on high setting.
Could you let me know how you get on with this one please, Ive got the exact same problem with same shower Creda 8500DL. Mid LED out and low water temperature.
The only way im managing a reasonable temperature shower currently is fine mist head setting with flow turned down to almost nothing. Suggests part of element gone or not being activated correctly.
The only way im managing a reasonable temperature shower currently is fine mist head setting with flow turned down to almost nothing. Suggests part of element gone or not being activated correctly.
Can i ask a question - do you by any chance take extra long showers ie more than 20 minutes???
I tend to spend a long time in the shower 15-20 minutes due to my Ocd and this may have an impact on the life of the heater elements - its just an idea.
But yes will reply once i have tested all the microswitches and the heater elements.
If its a microswitch its a cheap fix as its now out of warranty if not its a new shower and it wont be a Creda as this is the second time I have had the same problem on the same model series of shower - My Triton lasted 7 years before giving out these only last 2 years tops - they both use the same parts except one has a higher heater rating of 9.5kw.
Strangest thingon these showers is there are two high settings - i gturned the knob to the top one which i dont use and the shower became more usable ie hotter with the same flow of water.
I will have to do a circuit diagram when i take it apart and try and work out how it functions electrically.
I tend to spend a long time in the shower 15-20 minutes due to my Ocd and this may have an impact on the life of the heater elements - its just an idea.
But yes will reply once i have tested all the microswitches and the heater elements.
If its a microswitch its a cheap fix as its now out of warranty if not its a new shower and it wont be a Creda as this is the second time I have had the same problem on the same model series of shower - My Triton lasted 7 years before giving out these only last 2 years tops - they both use the same parts except one has a higher heater rating of 9.5kw.
Strangest thingon these showers is there are two high settings - i gturned the knob to the top one which i dont use and the shower became more usable ie hotter with the same flow of water.
I will have to do a circuit diagram when i take it apart and try and work out how it functions electrically.
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If your getting heat on the top high setting check the cams are activating m/switch.
Not particularly long showers no. The shower was in when I moved in around 3 and half years ago, not sure how long before that it was installed.
Thank you, would be good to not have to fork out for a new shower just yet if I can avoid it.
Is yours the 8500DL? The settings on the Chrome outer selection disc on mine are 1) Cold 2) Low 3) Mid 4) High...........Not sure about the 2 high settings?.......Its the 3rd setting Mid that shows LED out. I always have the shower set to 4th High unless its mid-summer and I can get away with less.
Its the 4th high setting that I am being forced to use with fine mist spray and extremely low flow to get a decent temperature. I was wondering if the element coils were staged and because Mid is out then im not getting full 8.5kW power......Or if a switch is not activating one of the elements??
I checked the cams with the cover off running through the settings and each setting appeared to activate switches in sequence so I think mechanically its ok, just maybe the electrics somewhere thats packed in.
Im not very hands on electrically technical so i'll attempt to fix if relatively simple and inexpensive replacement of parts so would be great to know how you get on. It must be a common fault if we are getting exactly same issue.
Thank you, would be good to not have to fork out for a new shower just yet if I can avoid it.
Is yours the 8500DL? The settings on the Chrome outer selection disc on mine are 1) Cold 2) Low 3) Mid 4) High...........Not sure about the 2 high settings?.......Its the 3rd setting Mid that shows LED out. I always have the shower set to 4th High unless its mid-summer and I can get away with less.
Its the 4th high setting that I am being forced to use with fine mist spray and extremely low flow to get a decent temperature. I was wondering if the element coils were staged and because Mid is out then im not getting full 8.5kW power......Or if a switch is not activating one of the elements??
I checked the cams with the cover off running through the settings and each setting appeared to activate switches in sequence so I think mechanically its ok, just maybe the electrics somewhere thats packed in.
Im not very hands on electrically technical so i'll attempt to fix if relatively simple and inexpensive replacement of parts so would be great to know how you get on. It must be a common fault if we are getting exactly same issue.
I did have the older 850dl but its now a 950dl with same problem.
I think the Chrome outer section shows your shower is one of the older models.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/8329769.htm
As you can see the new one is all white.
I had the old 850dl model variant myself.
It seems the fault has carried itself over the model revamp as well.
Just cosmetic changes from what i can see.
I always keep all broken bits and pieces so i have the old shower in my garage in case i need some bits microswitches etc.
At least yours has lasted more than 2 years think yourself lucky.
If you do take the cover off the front just make sure you switch off the breaker at your main fuse box - the voltages in showers are one of the highest power draws in the house and could zap you in an instant.
I think each element in the heater is activated by each microswitch contact so it could just be a microswitch this time as they were not replaced last time it was the whole heater can i replaced and I cant see that going down the tube in 2 months.
Its a sad fact that once one bit goes the rest is soon to follow.
False economy to just replace bits its best just buying a new unit when its a shower in my experience.
Sadly the so called Creda engineer refused to fix it because he couldnt get the pipe and olive off the water entry point - took me 5 minutes so he left me all the bits - great customer service i must say - not too happy when they sent me a bill for £70 because the engineer couldnt do his job.
They are the official fixers for Creda warranty but after i complained they rescinded the £70 - terrible service.
I wont be buying another Creda thats for sure.
In order of failure i would say it is either:-
Microswitch
Main Pcb
Heater Can
Will let you know how i get on hopefully will be able to test it tonight or tomorrow morning.
I think the Chrome outer section shows your shower is one of the older models.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/8329769.htm
As you can see the new one is all white.
I had the old 850dl model variant myself.
It seems the fault has carried itself over the model revamp as well.
Just cosmetic changes from what i can see.
I always keep all broken bits and pieces so i have the old shower in my garage in case i need some bits microswitches etc.
At least yours has lasted more than 2 years think yourself lucky.
If you do take the cover off the front just make sure you switch off the breaker at your main fuse box - the voltages in showers are one of the highest power draws in the house and could zap you in an instant.
I think each element in the heater is activated by each microswitch contact so it could just be a microswitch this time as they were not replaced last time it was the whole heater can i replaced and I cant see that going down the tube in 2 months.
Its a sad fact that once one bit goes the rest is soon to follow.
False economy to just replace bits its best just buying a new unit when its a shower in my experience.
Sadly the so called Creda engineer refused to fix it because he couldnt get the pipe and olive off the water entry point - took me 5 minutes so he left me all the bits - great customer service i must say - not too happy when they sent me a bill for £70 because the engineer couldnt do his job.
They are the official fixers for Creda warranty but after i complained they rescinded the £70 - terrible service.
I wont be buying another Creda thats for sure.
In order of failure i would say it is either:-
Microswitch
Main Pcb
Heater Can
Will let you know how i get on hopefully will be able to test it tonight or tomorrow morning.
Ok it always turns out to be the simplest solution.
I removed the case and the microswitches seemed ok but i noticed an intermittent connection on my meter.
Turns out and from the diagram the gentleman above kindly provided that there are really only two connections that would cause the middle temp light to go out and thats a microswitch or the left hand heater element blown.
Turns out it was the microswitch and possibly always ways - i may have replaced the heater and in dismantling the entire shower i inadvertently rocked the microswitch back into working order.
Took it out today and cleaned it , spray of wd40 and all is now working.
Your shower may be the same - i would start by getting a multimeter - switch off at the main fusebox - you dont need leccie to do continuity tests.
Do a test over the first microswitch - if its not that then sadly it may be the heater - if you do same test over ideally the left element but id test both you may find no continuity which means the heater can is a goner.
The only other remote possibility may be the main pcb but thats a long shot.
If you are lucky its the microswitch and a £5 fix , if not I wouldnt bother replacing the heater can on such an old shower its a false saving i would just buy a new shower.
I was going to get a Triton Hawaii if my unit was gubbed - Its only £44.95 in Argos and has the same inlet connection locations for electricity and water inlet as the Creda so that should minimalize the headache in having to reroute pipes and cables for a new shower install.
Hope that helps!!!
Do let me know how you get on - I am curious to know if these showers have a simple issue like this or if it is more major.
Nevertheless from what i have gleaned over the last few days on the myriad of sites i have checked for a solution it seems Creda is a bum make for a shower and Triton and Mira are the best showers to buy with in that order with Gainsborough coming in a close third.
As my gran used to say pay cheap , pay twice - A lesson to learn in life!!!
Ttfn
I removed the case and the microswitches seemed ok but i noticed an intermittent connection on my meter.
Turns out and from the diagram the gentleman above kindly provided that there are really only two connections that would cause the middle temp light to go out and thats a microswitch or the left hand heater element blown.
Turns out it was the microswitch and possibly always ways - i may have replaced the heater and in dismantling the entire shower i inadvertently rocked the microswitch back into working order.
Took it out today and cleaned it , spray of wd40 and all is now working.
Your shower may be the same - i would start by getting a multimeter - switch off at the main fusebox - you dont need leccie to do continuity tests.
Do a test over the first microswitch - if its not that then sadly it may be the heater - if you do same test over ideally the left element but id test both you may find no continuity which means the heater can is a goner.
The only other remote possibility may be the main pcb but thats a long shot.
If you are lucky its the microswitch and a £5 fix , if not I wouldnt bother replacing the heater can on such an old shower its a false saving i would just buy a new shower.
I was going to get a Triton Hawaii if my unit was gubbed - Its only £44.95 in Argos and has the same inlet connection locations for electricity and water inlet as the Creda so that should minimalize the headache in having to reroute pipes and cables for a new shower install.
Hope that helps!!!
Do let me know how you get on - I am curious to know if these showers have a simple issue like this or if it is more major.
Nevertheless from what i have gleaned over the last few days on the myriad of sites i have checked for a solution it seems Creda is a bum make for a shower and Triton and Mira are the best showers to buy with in that order with Gainsborough coming in a close third.
As my gran used to say pay cheap , pay twice - A lesson to learn in life!!!
Ttfn
Glad you sorted it.
Creda's not a make i useally fit or recommend.
Triton/mira being the most favoured.
Gainsborough are pretty low on the list most Gainsborough's now are sealed unit and not repairable not like the older units.
Creda's not a make i useally fit or recommend.
Triton/mira being the most favoured.
Gainsborough are pretty low on the list most Gainsborough's now are sealed unit and not repairable not like the older units.
Turns out from examining my other broken showers (8500Dl , 950Dl) that failed with the same issue is I believe is a manufacturing issue with all Creda and I bet other showers. The microswitches are attached to the case by a small plastic pin which over use weakens then snaps causing the microswitch to fail and drop out of position. Fixing it is easy by drilling the case and replacing the broken plastic pin with a metal pin or cut nail. Make sure to either melt it into the plastic or araldite it!!!
Hi, I have a Creda 8500DL which is no longer in use and looking to replace it. If I purchase another Creda 8.5KW will the fittings match, or is it more fiddly than that???
Any help would be appreciated as desperately need a shower in this heat!!!
Any help would be appreciated as desperately need a shower in this heat!!!
All locations are the same so its a case of remove and refit.
You may need to cut some of the plastic on the rear cover of the new one but its a small job.
Most creda's have the same pin and pipe and electricity entry points.
You can check their website - it gives all the locations for all items on each model.
I replaced and 8500dl with a newer 850l and all i had to do was file some of the plastic on the rear casing as the bottom entry point for the water pipe had shifted upwards and i wanted to use all the original drill pilot holes for fixing etc.
Shower re-fitting is an easy job!
Just make sure you switch the leccie off at the pull cord and the mains breaker - at least the shower breaker - preferably the main switch!!!!!!!!!
I have seen electricity coming from all manner of showers - one customer actually had wired his into his next door neighbours power supply - very dangerous and especially for me - if i hadnt tested it terminals after switching the electrictiy off at the mains i could have been toast!
My motto when working with high draw electrical items is to test and double test and make sure everything is off at the mains!
You only have one life!!!
You may need to cut some of the plastic on the rear cover of the new one but its a small job.
Most creda's have the same pin and pipe and electricity entry points.
You can check their website - it gives all the locations for all items on each model.
I replaced and 8500dl with a newer 850l and all i had to do was file some of the plastic on the rear casing as the bottom entry point for the water pipe had shifted upwards and i wanted to use all the original drill pilot holes for fixing etc.
Shower re-fitting is an easy job!
Just make sure you switch the leccie off at the pull cord and the mains breaker - at least the shower breaker - preferably the main switch!!!!!!!!!
I have seen electricity coming from all manner of showers - one customer actually had wired his into his next door neighbours power supply - very dangerous and especially for me - if i hadnt tested it terminals after switching the electrictiy off at the mains i could have been toast!
My motto when working with high draw electrical items is to test and double test and make sure everything is off at the mains!
You only have one life!!!
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