Glow Worm 18hxi - Airlock circulation issues WITH SOLUTION

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** Ive come back and edited to include the solution to the below problem now several months later.

This issue was solved by a good quality powerflush. They bloke came with high corrosive chemicals and a big powerful powerflushing unit (that cost him about £1,500) the muck that came out was unbelieveable. It has since worked fine for 1 year.

We had previously had it powerflushed so didnt think that was an issue, i realised as soon as this guy turned up that the other bloke may as well not have bothered. The first bloke had a small table top flushing unit and some chemicals from B&Q, he got virtually no muck out. I had been connecting up a hose to the boiler to clear it out with limited success, this bloke basically did that with some fairy liquid and charged me £500 for it....

The lesson is, find out what powerflush kit they have and what chemicals they are using.

It seems powerflushes are like cars, you could be getting a rolls royce, you could be getting a Ford escort......********


Over the last two years since we moved into our bungalow i've been having continued problems with our central heating.

The boiler regularly cuts out, each time after reaching a max temperature of say 70ish, then the temperature very quickly decreases down to 40c or so.

I paid a plumber to come out about a year ago who did a power flush, replaced the pump (which didn't need replacing), it worked again but only for about 6 months until the same issues started again.

It seems an airlock or possibly debris builds up in the boiler until it makes a clattering banging noise that builds up each day until it sounds like someone is trying to break in the kitchen window. Over time the period between when the boiler comes on and it cuts out because its over heating gets shorter and shorter.

The only success i've had is closing off the system and then attaching two hoses to the in and out of the boiler and blasting water through it from the outside tap. Sometimes there are small chunks of rusty debris that come out, about the size of a few needles put together, sometimes it only seems to be air that comes out. After doing this it usually works for another month, slowly getting worse until i have to do it again!

I am not convinced the debris is causing the problem, we have a Magnaclean tub attached right next to the in pipe of the boiler and it doesn't collect huge amounts.

We have replaced 5/8 rads with new ones, could the old ones be corroding and destroying the system?

I figure the problem has to be one of the below :
- Somehow air is getting in the system and into the boiler? (can't understand why the air wouldn't just be pushed out though)
- Debris is blocking the heat exchange in the boiler?
- Hard water has blocked the heat exchange?
- The pump is sited in the loft and doesn't have enough power? (seems unlikely, at times the boiler works perfectly)
- There is a blockage elsewhere in the system

Its so frustrating! at times the heating works perfectly, but then it slowly worsens each day until i drain the system, clear the boiler and refill the system.

I've attached some pictures incase anyone can spot anything!

The Boiler, pipes going up to the loft
IMG_0624.jpg


The loft, pipes from boiler are at the back centre, pump in red, switcher just after it
IMG_0625.jpg


The tanks, there is a air valve pipe that air accumulates in every so often
IMG_0626.jpg




Any help, suggestions or ideas very welcome! I'll try anything! (my wife is due our first in 2 weeks and i need to fix this so she doesn't move out! )
 
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it looks like from the pipework layout it is a bungalow.

the pump in the loft can cause a issue with air being drown into the system and also the distance the F&Etank is to the boiler.


Raise the tank in the loft
 
F&E tank is not high enough, fed & vent arrangement is not ideal. The hex has got debris caught in the coils and needs a proffessional clean.
 
Good points, thanks gents.

I agree the header tank should be higher, i will do that, but given that its worked pretty perfectly at times over the last 2 years i can't see that is the full cause, but won't be helping.

I've been working on it today, i've connected up hoses to the boiler and blasted water through at high pressure.

It did produce a decent amount of debris (as it normally does when i do this), but when the hose is connected it flows freely with water coming out the other end at the same speed as its going in so NO BLOCKAGE as far as i can see.

I'm stumped...

Pipes connected to blast clean water through
IMG_0639.jpg


Dirty water out
IMG_0633-1.jpg


debris left in the bucket that was in the boiler
IMG_0638-1.jpg



Any ideas??
 
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Right!

I've since refilled it and restarted the boiler. NO CHANGE OR IMPROVEMENT WHATSOEVER!?!? ARRRGGGHH

Normally this fixes it, but its exactly the same as it was before i cleaned the boiler out.

Debris isn't the issue...

Now the boiler won't start up! It cuts out and makes massive banging noises....

Is this a broken coil/heat exchange?
Or the system not circulating properly?? It sounds as if its empty of water but i've opened the magnaclean pot valves and validated its full.
Is there anyway the 3port valve could blocked to either heating or hot water?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8590hmynynI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNl3oOCvo04
 
I would suggest you get the system converted to a sealed system. there is not enough heaight above the pump, should be 5 feet min.
Once that is done get a RGI to clean h/ex properly, or replaced. flushing it using your method will never totally clean it.
 
more than anythink the system would not work due to air

bleed the middle screw of the pump in the loft- put a old towl under and alow all air to be removed

the boiler model you have has a overheat switch inside the boiler that has to be manual reset.




(i would agree if it is a intermitant fault i would not say it was the F&E or pump - i would install these correctly though as this would be the best place to start and whoever installed the boiler in the first place was asking for a bit of trouble)
 
(i would agree if it is a intermitant fault i would not say it was the F&E or pump - i would install these correctly though as this would be the best place to start and whoever installed the boiler in the first place was asking for a bit of trouble)
I reckon it was a DIY job, what plumber/heating engineer uses push fit fittings with copper pipe,
 
yh i would agree, alot of jobs look like this now tho thats why quotes are cheep

the person who installed the boiler must have moved the f&e because it was bodged ontop of the cold water storage tank.
 
massive thanks to all of you for replying, i've had to evacuate the house to my mothers as its currently 5c in the house! You can imagine how happy my pregnant wife is, she is due in 2 weeks!

The setup was like this when we bought the bungalow 2years ago, it worked perfectly for the first 9months. No idea who fitted it, but they left an old galvanised open water tank in the loft.

I've bled the pump many times and never get anything out, just drips gently. I've also reset the boiler a few times, you only need to do this when you let it run for long enough to let a fault code appear and the boiler shutdown altogether

I will make time to raise the f&e tank so its higher, this should help things longer term, i can do this.

From the video do you think the heat exchange on the boiler is knackered?

I've done all i can, am i now best calling a corgi gas boiler repairman to come and fix the h/e?

Or do i need a central heating engineer to assess the wider system flow?

The H/E does sound like a heavily scaled kettle when its running, but i'm concerned something is blocking the system at somepoint further along. The water that is being heated before the boiler cuts out is traveling along past the pump, past the switcher box....so i can't understand why its backing up into the boiler so quickly? I know the f&e is not high enough but its previously worked ok in this position

MASSIVE THANKS to all who have replied, i'm about to go mad with this, NEED to get it fixed tomorrow and don't want to be taken for a ride by some cowboy.
 
can you get the f&e tank up enough to give 5 feet head above the pump?
 
I should be able to get the f&f to at least 4feet. So will do that.

But it's worked for to years with setup fine for two years, if you look at the YouTube video you can see there is actually something wrong with the boiler.

I think the heat exchange is knacks red or heavily lime scaled up.
 
Check what hep pipework you have there.

If it's non barrier you will get those deposits forming over and over again whether you seal it or raise the tank.

Ted
 
you need 5 FEET minimum, not FOUR.
the reason it appeared to be ok for 2 years is more than likely the cr4p was building up from day 1, now its there it wont go away by running water through it, moving the f&e 4 feet wil not prevent the same happening again,whatever method is used to clean h/ex.
 

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