Honeywell 4073 3 port motorised valve

[fontaneroorejotas]

Hi,

First time user so apologies if i have done something wrong.

Have replaced motor and one of the microswitches in the head but motor and manual lever seem to stay in one position but trying to go one way then the other (just kind of pulsing one or two degrees to the left then right). I wonder whether the diode is faulty. Anyone had this fault before?
I have to put the lever into the the manual position in order to get the CH to work.

 

[muggles]

Just replace the whole head, it's easier...

 

[fontaneroorejotas]

thanks muggles but pennies are a bit few and far between at the moment and i have time on my hands as not working full time. If i cant get to the bottom of the problem or i get more abuse from the missus when the heatinfg is off then granted i will replace the head, but for now i want to know what the problem is.

 

[muggles]

You could quickly end up spending more on bits than you do on a complete new head, Tower heads fit Honeywell valves so this would do you...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-PORT-MO...L-HEATING-SPARE-PART-/290822398528#vi-content

 

[ianmcd]

why did you replace the motor and the micro switch in the first place ? was the head clicking constantly by any chance ?

 

[fontaneroorejotas]

yep it was clikcing all of the time. The motor was like turning a bag of nails, sounded really rough and spinning too freely; when i bought the new one i felt the rotation of the new motor and thought that that is how a synchron motor should feel.
Replaced the motor and saw that the lever was still clicking.
Took the unit apart and found that one of the switches wasnt switching, cant remember which switch and whether it was normally closed or normally open position.
I now have the lever in the manual position and can control the rads by the room stat but no hot water. When we want hot water we use the immersion.

 

[ianmcd]

sounds like the origional fault was that you dont have a HW off wire from your programmer a very common fault on 3 way valve wiring, if it is wired correctly you will have a wire coming from the rear of your programmer in the HW off terminal which will join the HW satisfied terminal from your cylinder thermostat, you Must have both wires connected, have a look in the Wiki on here for the correct wiring diagrams it has been extensively covered

 

[fontaneroorejotas]

Have now looked into this problem with a little more detail and i have also replaced the head.
I have a new valve which over the easter holidays will replace when i have time to drain down the system. With the head removed I am not happy with the feel of the valve when i turn it as it seems to seat ok when shutting off the HW and opening the CH, position A, it feels as though you get a nice firm stop but when i move the valve to position B, i can turn the spindle but it doesn’t seem to stop firmly it just feels like i cant turn the spindle any more.
Also I have checked out the voltages and have found that i get 240v on the orange (OK) and (incorrectly as per the forums) 240v on the white wire, all the other readings are correct.
I wonder now if i have a problem with the programmer??? The previous head had a motor that was rough and knackered with also a microswitch that had blown; i wonder if this had caused a problem and taken out the circuit in the programmer.
The other thing i have noticed is that if the CH and HW are on auto on the programmer, the room stat will not shutdown the boiler if i turn it down. If i turn off the HW on the programmer i can then control the heating with the room stat no problem.