Ideal Mini Not Igniting

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12 Sep 2011
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Location
Edinburgh
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United Kingdom
Hi,

I've just had a bit of a refurb and all the rads were removed. Hot water worked throughout this process, however once the rads were put back on I tried the heating, only to find the rads weren't bled (note I didn'te remove and replace the radiators!).

I bled all rads, and then reset the pressure to about 1 bar, however the boiler will no longer fire. It makes a churning sound for a few seconds, maybe repeats a cycle of the same sounds, and then the LED flashes 4* a sec.

Reading the manual, it sounds as though there may be a component problem (ignition PCB perhaps), however I would have sworn it more likely there is air in the system. I've checked the auto-air vent and it is lose, so I would have thought the boiler would bleed itself, is there anything else I'm missing?

Many thanks,
Kevin
 
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It sounds like the isolation valves on the flow and return have been closed. Make sure they're open and bleed everything again.
 
Thanks for your reply.
The valves were presumably open, as hot water had worked 5 mins before as had run a bath. Then decided to check if radiators were ok, that's when everything stopped working.
Had looked as though pressure was high at that point (2 bar), but radiators were full of air. Bled all radiators and pressure was 0, so re-pressurised and re-bled radiators. However the boiler now refuses to ignite.
 
If yoour hot water was working while the rads were off the iso valves must have been closed. It sounds like they still are and when you tried the heating the boiler has overheated and now needs resetting.
 
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Thanks again.

So, where are the isolation valves? Are they the valves on the copper pipes going up and out the boiler at the bottom (there are 2 turn tap style valves).

If the valves are off, surely even trying to put the heating on wouldn't have made any difference though?

The boiler has been on and off a few times since, is there anything else I'd need to do to reset?

Many thanks...
 
The two outside pipes are the flow and return, they should have an isolation valve on each. Make sure that they are both open (slot or handle vertical). There is a reset button on the front.
 
Okay, now I'm confused! (checked the valves BTW, both open)

Builders finished up today, any they were checking all the rads (a couple were leaking) etc. Couldn't get the boiler to work but left the pressure a bit high in my opinion (2 bar cold).

Anyway, tried to get it to fire up again, was considering doing the pcb diagnosis thing (had been reluctant as didn't want to fiddle too much, but getting deperate).

Didn't initially fire up, I had CH on but nothing. Then girlfriend happened to be running hot tap upstairs, and it started for a wee bit. Much excitement!

Couldn't get it to go on again, but then put all settings on max and had CH and HW on and it fired up and stayed alight.

Happy days, except the pressure went over 3.2 ish at one point, I switched everything off, and it shortly droppped back down to 2. There was LOADS of gurgling in boiler & radiators when it all started though.

I have since tried HW and it seems to fire up okay now.

Not tried CH again as want to let it cool down and try re-bleading the rads and bringing the pressure down. Not sure what's ideal though, I would have though a little over 1?
 

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