Potterton CH timer problem

[QuestionQuigley]

I wonder if anyone could advise about a central heating / timer problem I've had over the past few days.

At the weekend, I had to switch off the electricity to do some DIY. Since it's been back on, I've noticed that the heating has been behaving oddly, in that it seems to go on and off based on the hot water timer, with the actual CH timer having no effect. This means the CH is on all the time, and at full heat since the thermostat has no effect either.

Has anyone experienced this before? I tried powering the boiler off and on in the hope of resetting the electrics, but no joy. Could it just be a case of replacing the Potterton timer controller, or is there more to it than that?

Thanks.

 

[45yearsagasman]

Type of timer would help, as would a better description of all you system controls. If it's a digital timer, try a full reset and reprogramme to start with.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Type of timer would help, as would a better description of all you system controls. If it's a digital timer, try a full reset and reprogramme to start with.

It is a digital timer - model number EP2002.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

A follow-on question, if anyone can help: If I do need to replace the programmer, I'm tempted to go for a Potterton EP6002, which would give me separate control of HW and CH. However, I understand that this requires a "fully pumped" system, and won't work with a "gravity" system. How can I tell what type of system I have?

 

[45yearsagasman]

Have you got any of these in your airing cupboard? View media item 30391 View media item 38425Maybe a thermostat strapped to the side of your cylinder?

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Thanks, I'll check this evening.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Untitled

• QuestionQuigley
• 1 May 2012
• 1

Untitled

• QuestionQuigley
• 1 May 2012
• 1

I've attached photos of what is in my boiler cupboard. Does this confirm the type of system I have? Thanks.

 

[45yearsagasman]

The top picture indicates that you have a fully pumped system.

 

[QuestionQuigley]

Well, I replaced the programmer with an EP6002 and guess what? The problem is still there! Oh well, back to the drawing board...

 

[picasso]

replace the silver box on the valve in the first photo, you dont need to drain down as the actuator separates from the valve, just make sure you have completely isolated the electrics before you start.