Potterton Suprima 60 not igniting.....

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.....in fact it doesn't sound like it's even trying to.

Had the common lockout fault about a year ago, which was solved by replacing the pcb with a reconditioned one.

The fault now is that the green led flashes (external call for heat) but I can't hear the boiler trying to ignite (ie no sparks) or see the rapid flashing of the green led that I would expect.
It just sits there flashing green (slowly) and after a while gives up and the red led comes on too.
I also cannot hear a fan running but not sure if it should be at this stage!

Have read up about replacing the electrode lead but would the symptoms I have point to this needing changing or am I looking at another pcb?

Thanks for any advice
Paul
 
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The cause could be a faulty fan or PCB however practical testing is required to confirm - this involves removing the combustion chamber cover and so constitutes "gas work" as defined by Gas Safety & use regulations Contact a qualified gas engineer to carry out diagnosis and rectification ;)
 
.....in fact it doesn't sound like it's even trying to.

Had the common lockout fault about a year ago, which was solved by replacing the pcb with a reconditioned one.

The fault now is that the green led flashes (external call for heat) but I can't hear the boiler trying to ignite (ie no sparks) or see the rapid flashing of the green led that I would expect.
It just sits there flashing green (slowly) and after a while gives up and the red led comes on too.
I also cannot hear a fan running but not sure if it should be at this stage!

Have read up about replacing the electrode lead but would the symptoms I have point to this needing changing or am I looking at another pcb?

Thanks for any advice
Paul

replacing the RED HT lead has been one of my little crusades for the past three years. It's not your problem. The question is whether you have 240 volts to the fan or not. You need a volt meter to measure this and can be done quite easily at the pcb connector (although this would not exclude the rare possibility of a break in the loom)

Suprima problems are very often associated with the pcb
 
The fan was not running so the boiler would not even try to ignite.
The fan and pressure switch were both tested and found to be ok, so fault was with the PCB not signalling the fan to run.

PCB changed and boiler runs as it should now.

Thanks for your help.
Paul
 
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The updated PCB and wiring loom is a far better option than a recon old style PCB as the new board is more reliable and has added diagnostic benefits! ;)
 
The updated PCB and wiring loom is a far better option than a recon old style PCB as the new board is more reliable and has added diagnostic benefits! ;)

as usual, you seem to have gone way beyond your level of understanding
 

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