Please can someone help me with a query? I have just finished a course in boiler servicing and fault finding and have had my first call out. The burner keeps shutting off, i have put the feul gauge on the fuel pump and its reading 110 psi. I took out the burner and the fuel is getting to the nozzle. The electrodes were not sparking so i changed them and it still wasnt sparking. So then i chanaged the capacitor and everything was ok but then the next day the same thing, the boiler keeps shutting off. Can anyone with some experience in this field shed some light as i am really not sure what else the problem could be. Thanks Niall
Riello 40 burner keeps shutting off
- Thread starter NiallH
- Start date
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I take it you mean you replaced the transformer. This creates the spark.
This is the symptom of a faulty solenoid coil/valve.
The burner lights but then coil/valve fails and the fuel cuts off.
The burner then attempts to relight which it does. The coil
then fails again and the burner relights etc etc.
The transformer can't take it and burns out.
Replace solenoid coil and valve and that should cure it.
This is the symptom of a faulty solenoid coil/valve.
The burner lights but then coil/valve fails and the fuel cuts off.
The burner then attempts to relight which it does. The coil
then fails again and the burner relights etc etc.
The transformer can't take it and burns out.
Replace solenoid coil and valve and that should cure it.
You say the electrodes weren't sparking, you changed them which made no difference until you replaced the capacitor?
The capacitor is only used to help start the motor so has no bearing on the ignition. It may be that the ignition leads are faulty and in changing the capacitor you repositioned them slightly. My first step would be to check the ignition leads are in good order.
If you are going to take the burner out to check if the electrodes spark, don't forget to cover the photocell at the appropriate moment to stop it seeing false light.
More information would help diagnose the problem, such as burner make/model. seconds from motor starting to lock-out occurring (is this consistent or does burner fire and lock-out at intermittant periods afterwards).
The capacitor is only used to help start the motor so has no bearing on the ignition. It may be that the ignition leads are faulty and in changing the capacitor you repositioned them slightly. My first step would be to check the ignition leads are in good order.
If you are going to take the burner out to check if the electrodes spark, don't forget to cover the photocell at the appropriate moment to stop it seeing false light.
More information would help diagnose the problem, such as burner make/model. seconds from motor starting to lock-out occurring (is this consistent or does burner fire and lock-out at intermittant periods afterwards).
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A Riello 40 has a one piece electrode, No Ht leads, and the ign Txfr is part of the control box.
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Yep I would say you've panicked with this one slow down and look at what's happening 1 burner starts and after a while cuts out then relights. Sound like a coil breaking down when it gets warm and d Caldwell right in saying the capacitor is for starting the motor if it's a riello burner look in the fault finding sheet and take your time f your new to this you'll gain experience and be all right and if you get stuck com onto the forum the guys here will give you all the help they can and the very best of luck with your career 
Thank you all very much for all your replies, i really appreciate it. I went back around yesterday and changed to solenoid valve and that seems to have fixed the problem but i noticed when i turned the thermostat below 60 it shut off again. I had just switched the burner on a few minutes before this so it wouldnt have had time to reach this temperature so i left it at 80. Hopefully thats the problem sorted. Thanks again Niall
Well done you'll learn by the way riello 40 burners are usually called a mectron burner in mho maybe the best burner ever made
I'm having the same problem as Niall though when I slightly remove the front panel of the boiler casing my Riello works fine, no on and off cycling. I guess that points to insufficient air into the boiler?? I've checked the air shutter which is fine, the flue is clear. Nothing has changed with the boiler been working fine for years so I'm a bit puzzled why this has started. Any suggestions?
Have you got a tube going to the burner if so take it off if burner ok leave it off you have a problem with air
Some boilers have an 80mm plastic flexi pipe between the flue and the burner, some like yours don't the casing forms the required seal to stop fumes from entering the house
The problem you have is that a seal has failed on the balanced flue, allowing products of combustion to get sucked back into the burner causing it to constantly re-cycle taking off the front cover is allowing fresh air in to dilute the POC's present in the case THIS IS NOT THE REMEDY
you should dismantle the flue and repir the seals on the inner flue joints
Probably best left to a qualified oil engineer
The problem you have is that a seal has failed on the balanced flue, allowing products of combustion to get sucked back into the burner causing it to constantly re-cycle taking off the front cover is allowing fresh air in to dilute the POC's present in the case THIS IS NOT THE REMEDY
you should dismantle the flue and repir the seals on the inner flue joints
Probably best left to a qualified oil engineer
Yeah, defo no plastic pipe. I was going to get the boiler serviced anyway just didn't want to do if the problem was likely to be something serious/expensive. It does seem to guzzle oil so its ready for a professional service though the last time it was done it was just a 'kid' and a hoover that turned up, didn't give me much confidence! The boiler itself is maybe 15 years old, is there any benefit in buying a more modern burner unit to try and improve efficiency and reduce costs rather than complete replacement of the boiler? Cheers
Replacing the burner will only improve the reliabillity of the unit, the only way you will improve efficiency is to fit a Condensing boiler such as the Grant Vortex that would give an improvement of around 10% on efficiency compared to your existing 15 year old boiler (Camray per chance?)
The clue was when you said the boiler worked OK with the front off,
the most common boiler with case seal is the good old Camray, most balanced flue boilers use the 80mm "snorkel pipe" as previously described
If you wish to find a time served Experienced engineer near you
send me a PM with your location I can then forward it to my UK network of "Trusted Service Engineers"
Kind Regards
Ricky
the most common boiler with case seal is the good old Camray, most balanced flue boilers use the 80mm "snorkel pipe" as previously described
If you wish to find a time served Experienced engineer near you
send me a PM with your location I can then forward it to my UK network of "Trusted Service Engineers"
Kind Regards
Ricky
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