Hi, i am new here so please bear with me, the drainage on my shower waste has blocked,i have tried one shot chemicle cleaner but still no good,i have tried using a plunger which did push a little water away before stopping again. i have tried connecting the garden hose inserted into the head of the rubber plunger and when i hold this tightly over the shower drainage hole the water flows through when under pressure, but will not drain when not under pressure, any ideas anyone please.
shower tray very slow to drain
- Thread starter brian7
- Start date
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sagging wastepipe holding water!
adjust it so it has a fall all allong it length.
adjust it so it has a fall all allong it length.
brian the blockage has to be cleared and unfortunately that means taking the pipework apart, youve already tried pressure washing and the equipment you have does,nt do it.
can you seperate it?the last couple ive cleared have been used by females and it seems to me hair conditioner is a problem, it just adds to the problem or makes it worse. the pipework was just full of junk, all the way along
can you seperate it?the last couple ive cleared have been used by females and it seems to me hair conditioner is a problem, it just adds to the problem or makes it worse. the pipework was just full of junk, all the way along
thanks for your reply i think i will have to get the bathroom fitters back again, i was trying to fix it myself to save the disruption of getting the floor up and lifting the shower tray along with poss damage to wall tiles, thanks again,brian
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thanks buck51, i cannot get to wastepipe its conncealed beneath floor all i can acsess is the waste trap and that has a drainaway aroud the sides at the base of trap so i cannot poke with anything,looks like i am going to have to get the bathroom fitters to get the floor up and lift the shower tray to acsess the trap and pipework, thanks for your reply.
brian - it's often less disruptive to attend to problem pipework by accessing from below. If you've got access to room below bathroom you can "save the disruption of getting the floor up and lifting the shower tray along with poss damage to wall tiles" by first cutting a smallish hole in the ceiling in the room below in the approx position of the shower above (measure from walls) ... consider using a 100mm hole saw fixed in an electric drill or a 'jab saw'. You MUST save the bit of plasterboard you removed. This hole is your inspection hole to ID the problem ... cut a couple more holes if needed to track along the pipe direction.
If you need to affect a repair/improvement then use the 'jab saw' to cut a sufficiently large rectangle of plasterboard out (again keep this plasterboard bit). Try to make your cuts an inch or so away from any joists to aid ceiling repair later.
To repair the inspection hole(s) in the ceiling cut a length for 2" x 1" batten about 6" long, fix a screw in the centre to act as a handle and maybe a dab of gripfil to each end. Slot this batten up through the hole and pull downwards so it rests on the upper surface of the plasterboard. The gripfil will stick to the upper surface of the p/bd then fix in position with a couple of screws driven up through the ceiling and into the batten ends ... the central screw 'handle' holds the batten in place when screwing upwards. Remove the screw handle. A dab or two of gripfile on the back of the 100mm p/bd disk then introduce this to the hole, press up then fix with screw to batten. Fill the gaps (circular cut & screw holes) with plaster.
To repair the bigger rectangular hole it's a variation on the above theme. Why did I suggest cutting about 1" away from any joists? That space will allow the introduction of supporting battens.
It is clearly LESS disruptive doing it this way than knackering the finished bathroom ... remember all you have to repair is a little bit of plasterboard.
If you need to affect a repair/improvement then use the 'jab saw' to cut a sufficiently large rectangle of plasterboard out (again keep this plasterboard bit). Try to make your cuts an inch or so away from any joists to aid ceiling repair later.
To repair the inspection hole(s) in the ceiling cut a length for 2" x 1" batten about 6" long, fix a screw in the centre to act as a handle and maybe a dab of gripfil to each end. Slot this batten up through the hole and pull downwards so it rests on the upper surface of the plasterboard. The gripfil will stick to the upper surface of the p/bd then fix in position with a couple of screws driven up through the ceiling and into the batten ends ... the central screw 'handle' holds the batten in place when screwing upwards. Remove the screw handle. A dab or two of gripfile on the back of the 100mm p/bd disk then introduce this to the hole, press up then fix with screw to batten. Fill the gaps (circular cut & screw holes) with plaster.
To repair the bigger rectangular hole it's a variation on the above theme. Why did I suggest cutting about 1" away from any joists? That space will allow the introduction of supporting battens.
It is clearly LESS disruptive doing it this way than knackering the finished bathroom ... remember all you have to repair is a little bit of plasterboard.
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